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Todd

Dks 1710 Dryer Foam Replacement

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So, my prints are coming out with a bunch of foam bits a pieces all over them.  Time to replace the foam.

On a suggestion from a past thread, I purchased these from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280929163659?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

The service manual does not include instructions for removing the rollers from the dryer.

Is there a simple procedure for this?  Obviously I do not want to make the job any harder then it has to be.  If left to my own devices, I am certain that I will do more dis-assembly then is required.

Thanks,

-Todd

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Hello, yes , this is the simple procedure. At first You have to take of the dryer cover. Then take of the special foam roller holder which is on the same side where is the drive belt. Now Ypu have acces to almost rollers, I used the knife to rip of old foam, after that cut the new foam same lengh , and stick it using the glue. Before it You can redraw scheme of rollers on the paper. I used the same foam as You. Tried a lot of foams, this is the best.

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Hi Todd,

 

I used the Armaflex tube.  I got it from Hawko in the UK.  I tried the US size of Armaflex, but it is too big. I got the Euro spec tube with the 6mm center and 9mm wall.  The center hole is a little big so I wrap the shaft with aluminum tape first, smear the tape with Gorilla Glue and then slide the Armaflex tube on top.  It works perfectly.  I probably didn't need the aluminum tape since the Gorilla Glue expands, but I'm a bit anal so that's how I did it.  If you use Gorilla Glue, don't forget to dampen the insides of the foam with water to help the Gorilla Glue cure.

 

I bought some of the rollers you have and they look even better than the Armaflex.  It looks like they have a smaller inside diameter which is perfect and they seem more substantial than the Armaflex.   I'll try them this winter when we slow down.

 

Open the dryer and you'll notice two regular slotted screws on the sides of the lid.  One at the front (inside the front lip) facing the front of the machine, and one on the back of the lid facing the back.  Remove these and the entire lid of the dryer will lift up and expose the rollers.  Don't remove the screws above the replenishment console on the dryer lid if you don't have to.  These are a pain to get back in.

 

A lot of them can be removed by just pushing them out.  The black circles pop out and the roller with gear slides through the hole left by the black plug.  The plastic ends pull off of the shafts and then easily slide and glue new foam on.  With some you have to unbolt the dryer rack to lift it up so you can get them out.

 

One of the rollers has a gear on both sides with set screws.  One of my set screws has a stripped hex head and the other won't budge.  This roller has the short foam segments on it.  Since I couldn't remove the shaft, when this one went bad, I had to improvise. I cut 3/4" segments of the Armaflex, then cut them radially from the center to the edge ..like a Pac Man.  I scraped off the old segments, buttered up the inside diameter and the edges of the split on my new segments with glue, slipped them over the shaft and taped them together until the glue dried.  This seemed hokey but it has been working fine for months.

 

Here's another topic where this is discussed:

http://www.minilabhelp.com/topic/16054-rollers-made-of-sponge-to-dryer/?hl=dryer

 

The sneakiest roller is the one at the very back of the first turn around plate near the entrance to the dryer.  This one is hard to get to since you have to unbolt the entire dryer rack and lift it up a bit get this roller past the hinge when you slide it out.  This roller causes many jams in the dryer as it loses diameter and breaks down.  I didn't even know it was there until I followed a piece of paper though the dryer while I manually rolled it and checked with my fingers.

 

When this roller loses form, it allows the paper to hit the edge of the roller cavity instead of continuing smoothly around the turn plate.  It's tough to describe but when you see it you'll know what I mean.  It beats up the edges of the prints and causes intermittent double-ups and jams later in the dryer.  It's tough to know when it's bad since it only goes bad in the middle and the middle is hard to see, but you can feel it.  The edges appear to be fine but it gets beat down in the middle and causes problems.  I had jams, called my tech to do a preventative maintenance, and he replaced some rollers with foams he'd made.  He completely missed this roller and I was jamming up a storm in the busy season.  I replaced this one and it's smooth sailing since.

 

 
I would go forward with the rollers you have.  Take a picture of the dryer before you disassemble it, carefully take it apart, and get busy fixing it.  You'd be surprised what you can do when you put your mind to it.
 
Best of luck,
Ken

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Hi all,

I started replacing the foam a few rollers at a time.  I got the last 4 or 5 rollers done first.  Then I started getting a densitometer error.  I pulled the lamp and then the block from the dryer and found a wad of old foam in it. No light getting through.  I cleaned it out, but still had problems, specifically, repeated denitometer errors and oddly creased prints.  I looked at the foam around the denimoter and it had broken down so badly I suspected it was not properly feeding the paper under the densitometer causing the error.  I replaced the rest of the foam around the denitometer, and the error seems to have stopped.  I just turned the machine on, did the set up and ran 70 8x10s and so far so good.  I still need to replace the rest of the foam, and I will do so as I get time. 

 

I have been using the eBay foam referenced above.  It's the right diameter, and seems to be very durable.  I made a small roller holder out of scrap wood that allows me to easily apply glue to three rollers at a time.  I used the flexible metal rod I removed from one of the foam rollers to apply the glue to the inside of the foam.  The glue I used is called pliobond 25.  It is a sort of very aggressive contact cement.  It is very stinky, so if you try it, do your brain a favor and open a window and use a fan, or better yet: do it outside. 

 

I tried to replace the foam on the exit rollers by cutting a slit on one side and then gluing them in place with standard contact cement,  the standard contact cement has not been sticking, and the slit is starting to separate.  I suppose I will have to further disassemble that roller and slide on replacement foam. 

 

 

Here are a few pics.

 

post-6769-0-52076500-1419882593_thumb.jpg

post-6769-0-08448800-1419882606_thumb.jpg

post-6769-0-87508600-1419882630_thumb.jpg

post-6769-0-89626200-1419882645_thumb.jpg

Edited by Todd

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I use 22 mm or 7/8" hair rollers that I pick up from the  local Hair salon. I have pretty much replaced most of the rollers in my 1670 and 1550 with these and have not had to replace them in years. ( Just had to replace one today ) very Cheap and easy fix

 

For the the ones that are hard to disassemble just cut the hair roller open and glue it on to the shaft.....very easy

 

I use super glue with no issues

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Here's how I get to the rollers near the densitometer on my 1710.

 

1) Unscrew and lift the dryer cover

 

2) Remove the dryer rack belt (ease it off a pulley where it's somewhat loose)

 

3) Remove the silver plate on the back of the dryer that hold the shafts near the densitomer.

 

4) Lift the dryer rack and remove the shafts at the turn near the densitometer one at a time starting from the bottom

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One more thing.  Make sure you make the new foam segments in the appropriate sizes and positions.  They alternate from roller to roller so the shafts can be close to each other without the foam touching.  If not, they will touch each other and cause the rollers to turn in towards each other rather than rolling together in the same direction.  That will cause a jam.

 

I'm using the green bendy rollers from the UK exclusively now.  Also Gorilla Glue is the best for the foam.  Especially when you do a Pac-Man job on a shaft you can't remove as I described in the other post.

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I tried out the Gorilla Glue (an expanding polyurethane glue for those who are not in N. America).  It works great.  Much easier to use then the Pliobond I had been using.  Not as stinky either. 

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