Jump to content

  • Announcements

    • NeilT

      Mini Lab Help.com 2018 UPDATE   01/01/2018

      2018- Mini Lab Help are seeking sponsors/advertisers to help us keep this web site going. We have to cover our running and licensing cost. Please do let us know if you are interested.
      We would now consider the sale of this web site, please contact us if you wish to discuss. 

Chemicals Noritsu V30

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,


I recently bought a Noritsu V30 film processor and after a few technical problems with it, ( cutter motor and some pumps broken ) now it is 100% working.


I have to buy the chemicals but it´s been a nightmare for me due to I am new processing film.


I have contacted with Fuji Spain, Fuji Belgium and Fuji Germany and all them are giving me different references and advices and I don't know what to do.


I am not going to develop film for anyone, just for my own photography wedding works. The machine is going to be stopped all the time and I just planned to use it each time I have a film wedding booked, ( I am an hybrid shooter, I shoot digital and film, so depends of the package booked by my clients ) So as I say, the machine is going to be stopped and my intention is to turn on the Noritsu just the day after the wedding, usually each 3/4 weeks, sometimes could be a little longer or not.


After several calls to Fuji and surfing over the internet I have different references and I don´t know what exactly do I need for my particular case. I don´t know if I need to buy the very low throughput chemicals ex. Developer 60 AC or the regular ones.


Can anyone explain me the differences and which one is better for me in order to avoid as much as possible oxidation, evaporation, etc ?


I understand that if the machine is going to be stopped, no oxidation possible here, isn´t it ? 


Sorry my english and my questions !


Thanks for your support



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I doubt that in 3-4 weeks of  non working keeping the chemicals will be good enough for good film development.
You a person with risky nature...
To load a film from a wedding with priceless moments to the FP with unknown result at the end...



I would not do it.


The best way is not to stop it for such a long time but develop a film or two by a day.

Invite the friends who also crazy on film cameras and use it together.

Offer the service of film development to the labs at neighborhood (most of them do not have FP now but clients come and come) - do everything to keep alive (not just standing still like a furniture).


Any chemical will fade, any... do not believe to the ads of chemical sellers.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I mostly agree with Yustas.  Don't do it.   One roll a day is bad for the V30... It wants, at least 12 rolls every time you turn it on -- that's what someone told me with our V50.


I understand that if the machine is going to be stopped, no oxidation possible here, isn´t it ?

There will be less oxidation with machine turned OFF, and more with it on and heating/circulating the chemistry.



Also, do you have a plan for disposing of the effluent ?

It is a "toxic" waste that your local environmental people will really NOT like you pouring down the drain....

Just something else to consider.


Cheers and Good luck !

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry my ignorance but as I described above, the machine is going to be turned off all the time and I just want to turn on it when I have enough film rolls, at least 20/30 rolls. Where is the problem ? I am not going to process one roll a day, I want to process all my film rolls at the same time and while the machine is going to be turned off.


According to this Fuji article;




This developer chemical allow a maximum of 3/4 weeks so where is my mistake ?


The fuji technician told me this, that I will not have any problem because the machine is going to be turned off and when I turn on I am going to process enough film and after this I am going to turned off again.


Apologies for my silly questions please !

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

In article specified by you it is written that for the film-processor V30 (CD volume 10 liters) it is necessary to develop 20 films a week (or 80 films a month).

Also you will have big problems with crystallization of solutions because of big pauses in work.

Edited by kodak_service

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Kodak, I will try the following;


I will use the chemicals developing all my film onetime, and then I will drain the tanks to fill pet bottles to the very rim. This will remove all the air inside of the bottle avoiding most of the oxidation and I can store the mixed chemical for months. Furthermore I can use argon or nitrogen too to seal and avoid any kind of oxidation.


After reading several information over the internet, this method looks work like a charm.


Keep my fingers crossed :)


Thanks !

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again guys !


Thank you so much for your help.


Finally I have my Noritsu working like a charm and I was wondering if is possible to push film with the Noritsu V30 model ( not Noritsu v30p ) ? 


Also, I would like to run process strips for my Fujitsu chemicals but I don´t know if this will be very complicated to do it, I never used a control strips before, so I don't know how I must understand the results. anyone ?


Thanks !!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I too have a V-30, and am really happy with it, running only Kodak chemistry. They are now selling a LU developer for C-41 process, in a 5 liter mix it is 823 1672 which works out very well, as the LU is for Low Utilization. Although we generally process 30-40 rolls a day. Considering the cost, I don't believe I would bother careful storage of the fixer, as it is cheap. My opinion would be to look for a Noritsu T-15 processor if you are using only 35mm, and consider a PhotoTherm Sidekick for really low use. We have one we use mostly for black and white, and for push processing C-41.  Running a test strip, which we do every day, is a very good plan. Just load it into one of the plastic cartridges such as you use for medium format, attach it to a leader card, and develop it.  By the way, we have had our best results and lowest overall cost using Kodak chemistry. Using the C-41RA bleach which is RTU and pricey, has proven to be not necessary.Finally, your V30 replenisher tanks hold slightly over 10 liters each, so I would add developer to the tank only when prompted, and then only a couple of liters, in order to keep it fresh.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you so much for the info!

I use 35 & 120, so TS is not an option and the Sidekick has no dryer function.

V30 is the way to go it seems.

Thx again!

Edited by Verbeke Olli

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now