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Magenta

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  1. This is a simple fault on box chemistry. It knows how many prints can be processed before it SHOULD run out of replenished. Yours has not run out so it will let you carry on for a while then give the error. Go into Maintenance mode Processor and input check This will show your tank levels for P1 P2-A and P2-B, I suspect 1 or more are empty with the other still showing half full. That's the one that you need to look at to ask why? The box should have all the chemicals running out at the same time. You need to check your replenisher pump outputs are correct, maybe needs new poppet valves or a pipe is blocked kinked etc. Once you think you have a reason for it not to be empty simply drain all the rep tanks, The taps are normally below the position of the replenisher box. Not the same taps for draining the main tanks. Once drained it should ask for water to be filled and a new box and the door shut. It should then do a mix as normal. If it doesn't you can make it do a mix from normally the installation screen, more info on the model would help, I'm presuming Fuji
  2. On the other side especially with the demise of lab outlets in the UK with both Asda and Boots pulling out of wet lab and film processing in particular I see a gap for those left processing film. Your arty farty film is best brigade still want to shoot film. Processing the film needs to be done correctly at a Premium price but its no good if your film processor process is poor or scratching due to lack of use. think about offering a bit more than the disposable market wants maybe a dev and digital contact sheet process, most digital labs can scan and print a contact sheet. with upwards of 400 less outlets in the market its worth a shot, start with process control, half the problems you get are due to low utilization so think about only running the machine 2 or 3 times a week rather ran it churning away day in day out turning your Dev into Guinness
  3. Very few did when it was common practice to read one before processing. I had a guy who kept 3 good ones in his draw and read those each day gaining a Kodak award for consistent process control. The fact the image on the neg was so light the neg mask wouldn't print anything didn't seem to attract his attention
  4. If you are looking for the maintenance mode that does give you options an operator would normally see the password is 2260 From the menu that shows extension, before going any further press F1 AND F9 at the same time it will ask for the password then go to the mode you want you will have extra function not seen till then. DONT mess with things you don't know or you can mess it up. If not this please try to tell us what you are trying to do
  5. Pull out the top magazine tray on the left hand side you will see half of the sensor fitted to the side of the tray. it has a small 8mm wide stainless steel cover protecting the rear side of the sensor PCB. Check that it is not touching the rear side of the sensor. They have a knack of getting bent in and will short out the voltage going to it and others on the same supply. Worth a check
  6. 1st thing to check with any machine is chemistry. Time temperature and concentration, Time is taken care of by the rack, has it reached temperature? Check the recirculation filters are not clogged. Is it fresh chemistry or been sitting in the machine unused and unloved for some time. In the Old days you processed a control strip and read it with a densitometer comparing the readings with a master supplied. You could spot problems with recirculation replenisher rates before it showed in your work. A black art these days. Most don't know how or do this so simply process some paper 1st fogging the leading edge. Leave 1 inch sticking out the magazine when you load the magazine, Noritsu's will normally ask do you want to feed lead paper, YES. The unfogged paper should be white, the fogged paper black. If its not your chemistry is no good and needs replacing. The test paper has not been exposed by the machine so its should be black. If it is black and only looking blue on images exposed by the machine then its a set up issue
  7. You show the keyboard ribbon cables removed. These use a graphite type contact strip that often don't make a good contact with the receptor. Clean the very end of the transparent strip and contacts with a pencil eraser {not to hard or you will rub away the conductive surface} refit and try again, you can test each button for a beep but they often work in that way but not when pressing say yes and no at the same time. if no good I would go keyboard first
  8. Undo the bolts holding the motor undo the grub screws on the pulley turn the bolts round from the motor and screw them into the other blind holes, they will push the motor back off the pulley or at least with the bearings, clean any burrs of the motor shaft with a file to help getting if off next time
  9. Its a bloody long time since I worked on a 22 but if I remember rite the shutter has a motor that drives a blade between 2 rubber buffers. Over time they cut into the rubber and can hang up. I may be thinking 1501 but Im sure the 22 was similer. Again from memory the buffer has a couple of large brass nuts that act as a damper. I used to loosen these so its a softer hit as it moves the blade jumps free.Worth a look
  10. As I said the roller is mounted in a plastic frame so static builds up wrap some copper wire round the shaft and earth it to one of the screws on the preasure plate Noritsu use fine antistatic brushes to dissipate static but the unit is tight for room,
  11. Its not related to the magazine. I as you had the machine covered in black out cloth, looking for missing screws or sparking plugs a sockets and it took some time to track it down. I think you will find that your fog mark has a flat side with it radiating away in an ark. The flat edge is the edge of the slot in the chrome plate. I dont know why but it seems to only do it on wide paper. is yours on the far side of centre, I have never had it on the front side. I would add a wire to both rollers. Also never had it on 32 or 37 machines only 34's Good Luck
  12. I Have had this on several 3411, seems to be worse with Fuji paper and also in winter in the UK. I know we don't get cold but its a static discharge from the pressure plate. Im sure if you measure carefully it lines up with one of the slots on the chrome plate that lets the roller press down the paper. I solved this fault on several machines by adding a short earth wire from the roller shaft. its a bit of a bodge, strip about 2 inch off the end of some copper stranded wire and wrap it around the stainless steel shaft at the far end so the shaft can still turn freely. Keep the wire away from the exposure area, connect the other end to one of the screws on the pressure plate. The 2 rollers are supported on plastic frames so they build up a charge till it jumps and fogs. PS the wire will wear away in the end so if it comes back in 10 years replace the wire.
  13. Generally the exposure advance on the 37 often has banding issues. The 32 system looks identical but I have only replaced 1 or 2 on very old machines. The 37 normally gives banding due to dirt on the pulley or frayed belts as you describe but also failed bearings on the rear side. You will often see a small pile of black debris under a bearing as they grind away. Any banding will be constant as the shaft stutters frequently.Replacing the bearings can be done but I would advise not to hit the end of any shafts or they will round over making removal almost impossible. Get the unit out on a bench and try to save any damage to shafts The bearings can be tapped out, tap it turn it bit by bit. A full set of bearings can be pushed in taking care to only push the outer rim of the bearing not the ball race or inner. Good Luck
  14. 1st of all arcnet is tricky but not impossible to get a full pass using the arcnet tool. Look at arcnet like a network. Each fiber optic sends a signal like "hello can you hear me" and the other sends a "yes I can" signal back. Each bank of black and white connectors is either lit or dark. The problem is not just dust inside the cable receptacle it will often have slithers of black plastic from the optics outer cover that are stripped off when people pull the optic out without pushing the white or black ring down. often you need to push the optic in a bit before pulling it out. The engineer should have used a syringe with a short length of heat shrink tubing that will fit into the receptacle to suck any debris out. I often have to remove the PCB and tap the board onto a desk top to knock out larger lumps or dirt, plastic bits. I tend to disconnect everything and only connect 1 pair at a time. Of course when you run the tool it will report a fail on any devices not connected but we know they will report a fail. Start by plugging in the longest lead from the printer direct to the PC. The problem ones I find are normally the PCB under the dryer. It gets very dusty and will often tell you about phantom paper jams, prints went down the processor but were not seen coming out of the dryer. If you can get any of these PCBs pinging back even if say the processor is not that proves the the LVDS PCB in the PC can send and receive. I always leave any neg scanner till last The s2,3,4 can often kill the whole arcnet system. The cable going up to the top of the scanner often gets damaged as the scanner should stand clear of the table or top of your machine. People drag the scanner forward, bending and snapping the fibre optic inside the grey plastic cover so it cannot be seen. You need to go step by step. Prove each PCB one at a time, then each pair of sockets one at a time. A length of good fibre optic is a great help. if it talks with a good cable but not the one fitted in the machine its likely the cable is damaged. Look for red light shining through the grey cover (hard to see with the black covered ones. PS check device manager and make sure windows has loaded the correct drivers for the LVDS PCI cards they should not have any warning marks for unknown devices. If so delete the driver and update driver it should find a Noritsu Koki driver If you have golden hands this will work again, good luck
  15. Processing and reading control strips is a forgotten art. You do them everyday and its always correct is the normal answer. BUT a bad reading will show long before you can see it on the work Black bits sounds like dirt from your PS. Again one of those good reasons for never cleaning the racks. Its Ok till you disturb the racks, either remove and give a good clean or leave and it should clear up. If you still have a problem with whites on new chemicals it could be old or stale paper. I can only presume that your paper has been stored correctly and is not 5 years old