2017 - Minilab Help could face closure at the end of the year. Our outgoing running cost and time is no longer being covered by our sponsorship. 
With almost 10,000 members we have grown to be perhaps the worlds largest forum for Mini Lab Help. 
We would now consider the sale of this web site, please contact us if you wish to discuss. 

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      Mini Lab Help.com For Sale   03/16/2017

      2017 - Minilab Help could face closure at the end of the year. Our outgoing running cost and time is no longer being covered by our sponsorship. 
      With almost 10,000 members we have grown to be perhaps the worlds largest forum for Mini Lab Help. 
      We would now consider the sale of this web site, please contact us if you wish to discuss. 

KenTen

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KenTen last won the day on December 14 2016

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About KenTen

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  1. DKS 1610 Racks not starting up

    Hi Ray, I connected the 9v battery to the two wires after removing them from screw connectors on the tank board. I was under the impression that you could remove these two wires from the tank board, connect them to 12V power, and continue to use the machine. I have not done this. I had the tank board repaired by an electronic technician who was unfamiliar with a DKS machine. He replaced a large "chip" that stood up from the board. He told me that this chip was the component that supplied 12V power to the rack motor connectors. I only removed the two wires and connected the battery under the directions of a DKS tech to determine the rack motor was operational. Hope this helps, Ken
  2. DKS 1610 Racks not starting up

    Hi Ray, I have a 1710. When this happened to me, I connected a 9v battery to the two big wires on the tank board (I think they were black and white) and the racks started to turn. This technique was suggested to me by a tech to determine if the motor was bad or not. After determining that the motor was working, I sent the board in to have the chip replaced and it fixed the problem. I've heard of people connecting a 12V power supply to these wires to fix the problem as well. I hope this help you. Take care, Ken
  3. DKS 3 - all pumps make strange sound

    Hi Sibi, Sure looks like a clogged water filter to me. I'd disconnect the water line from the pump and see if that stops the clicking. If so, you've got a clogged water filter. My water pumps clicked intermittently. I did what Perica suggests with the additional tubes and that alleviated all of my water pump clicking. I realize that is not what you're experiencing though. You seem to have a complete occlusion of your water line that is causing the pumps to strain due to their inability to draw water. The skipping of the plastic gear in the pump (clicking) is the built-in strain relief mechanism that keeps the pump motor from burning out. I have no experience with the celduc modules you mention, but I have a lot of experience with the type of clicking you show in your video and it has always been clogged filters for me. Good Luck, Ken
  4. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    OK I've got this figured out finally (I think). It was the foam tripping the overflow sensor. The drain hole was not clogged. That was evident when I drained the tank, filled it with water and heard the water running freely into the effluent tank It was the Axelcolor developer and small leaks in the Rev Pump line. It appears that the Axelcolor developer is more susceptible to foaming than the KIS developer. My rubber hoses from the concentrated developer to the REV pump were all degraded, hard and bulging. I ran a straight line of windshield washer hose from the auto parts store from the dip tube to the pump. This did not immediately fix the problem. The developer in the tank was apparently somewhat "carbonated". I remixed the tank with newer Axelcolor developer and the Rev pump started working reliably. I still have some foam though. I've asked Axelcolor a few times if this is a problem, and I haven't gotten a straight answer. After we slow down, I'll renew the tank with KIS developer and see if I still get foam. If the foam disappears, I'll likely avoid Axelcolor developer in the future. Happy Holidays to all. Thanks again to Ronnie and Relaxia for the help and thanks to all who read. Ken
  5. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    Thanks Ronnie and Relaxia for the reples. I'm using Axelcolor Chemistry now. I've had no problems with it in the past but I've never used it for high production. The foam seems to be the problem. Is there a defoamer that anyone has tried? I'm tempted to try some hot tub defoamer in the developer. Where was your drain hole clogged and how do you clean it Ronnie? Did you take the waste tanks off and run a brush through that tube going up? Or did you find it in the back of the tank and clean it from there? Ken
  6. Bent Print Corners Dks 1710

    Hi Everyone, I was getting bent print corners on prints near the end of the roll. I cleaned the turn plates in the beginning of the dryer, a normal print bending culprit, with no luck. It only happened on the last few prints of a roll so it was hard to catch and I wasn't too concerned. I figured the paper I had was a few months old and the curl was greater ..certainly near the end. I finally found the part that was doing the bending. There is a rod with a stainless steel plate under it on the very end of the processor tank. It is mounted on the side of the last Stab tank with 3 screws. The rollers were frozen with gunk and not turning freely at all. I removed the part, soaked it in hot water, and washed the stainless plate. No more bending! Hope this helps you if you're getting phantom bends. Take care, Ken
  7. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    I lowered the level in the Dev tank and it worked immediately in concert with the eauRev pump to top off the tank. Then it didn't work for a while and now it seems to be working fine. Go figure. I think the overflow hole on the back of the developer tank may have been partially plugged causing the tank to have an unnaturally high level. That's my theory for now. I'll check better when it slows down The level sensors were pretty dirty. That may have been contributing to the problem too. Thanks for reading and thanks for the support Ronnie. Ken
  8. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    Thanks for the idea. Maybe the drain hole is plugged up and the tank is over level. Seems weird that the eauRev pump wouldn't shut off too, but it's worth a try. I'll report on the possible effect the high level sensor has on replenishment pumps. I've noticed that the developer tank has foam on top. That's something I've never seen before. Does anyone know if there is a screen that shows the condition of all the sensors? I though tthere was a screen on this machine (DKS 1710) but I could be thinking of another we had. Ken
  9. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    Here's another thought ..could I turn the CTO on in Chimie.exe, set it up to the same parameters as the developer, reroute the developer tubes to the CTO pump and get it to replenish developer that way? Ken
  10. Hi Everyone, My DKS 1710 is not replenishing the developer. The developer replenishment pump works if you go into Super User (SU) and try to calibrate it (40 turns), but when the machine is printing it does not work. All the other pumps (Blix, Stab, EauRev, EauBlix, EauStab) come on intermittently when the machine is printing but not the developer pump. I have checked in Chimie.exe and the pump is not disabled. I recently increased the developer replenishment rate in Chimie.exe because I thought we were under-replenishing due to poor blacks. I later found out that the EauRev (Developer Water) pump was running continuously. I thought perhaps it was due to a dirty level sensor, so I found the level sensors and cleaned them in the Dev tank. That seemed to stop the run-on water pump but I next noticed the developer replenisher bottle level on the side of the machine was not going down. I put a graduated cylinder on the dip tube and activated the developer replenisher pump in SU (40 turns). The pump did not make the cylinder level go down so I cleaned the Dev filter and the pump began drawing fluid from the cylinder. I thought my problems were solved when I noticed the bottle level was not going down again. Next I noticed that while the machine was printing, all of the pumps came on to replenish except the developer pump. Does anyone know why the developer pump would work when I activate it through SU (40 turns), but not when the machine is printing and normally replenishing? Thank you for reading, Ken
  11. Blue Rubber

    I got a belt that's close in size, texture, and stretch. It's from an 8-track player. Here's where I got it: http://www.ceitron.com/passive/flatMbelt.html It is FM7.25. It's a bit narrower but otherwise it looks like it will work. I'm going to get a set and try it out, I'll let everyone know. I'm still suffering with the short prints: http://www.minilabhelp.com/topic/23991-short-first-print-in-dks-1710/ Any ideas are appreciated. Take care, Ken
  12. Short First Print In Dks 1710

    Yep. Me too. This is happening still. I thought I fixed it but I didn't. It only happens on my internal feeder. My external feeder is fine. I guess it may be the cutter assy. I will try to change that with my parts machine and report the result. Ken
  13. Short First Print In Dks 1710

    I think I've fixed the short print problem. Since the machine is dual track, I figured I had to look for a split roller that drove the paper for cutting. That was in the cutter. So I removed the paper magazine, removed the cutter cover inside the paper cabinet. Cleaned the roller on the cutter cover and cleaned the two rollers inside the cutter with Rubber Renue. All seems well. I've cleaned these rollers before but only to address my cassette loading problem which had nothing to do with them. That was due to the roller inside the lid of the cassette being fouled. Hope this helps someone out. Ken
  14. Short First Print In Dks 1710

    This did not seem to fix the problem. The short prints are coming out more often now and not just the first one anymore. Our staff said they have seen short prints like this before but very infrequently in the past. It is to the point where it is a problem with production and I need to look into it further. I don't think it's a software issue because the sizes are very inconsistent. I'm assuming that it has to do with the rollers on the edge of the exposure deck. I don't think it could be one of the toothed belts that run to the stepper motor since the lengths are random. The short prints are all within an inch of being the correct size. Does anyone know how the 1710 measures paper? I only see two sensors on the exposure deck so I'm assuming the machine measures the paper with the stepper motor on the front right side of the exposure deck. Does anyone know of a way to check or adjust the tension of the metal/rubber rollers on the end of the exposure deck? Thanks for reading, Ken
  15. Hi, I started experiencing a short first print from my DKS1710. It only seemed to be happening on the internal feeder. When I printed 4 prints in a row, the first one came out 1/2-3/4" short and the others were normal length. I guessed it was a roller issue since the short prints were cut to inconsistent sizes. I cleaned the roller on the lid of the cassette. Previously I'd had problems loading new cassettes due to this roller being dirty. I'd never had inconsistent sizes before from this roller so I moved on to clean further. I cleaned the large metal roller on the inside of the exposure chamber near the right side of the exposure deck. I also sprayed some roller cleaner on the four rubber rollers underneath the metal roller. I couldn't wipe off these rubber rollers since they were only accessible through small slots in the sheet metal of the assembly. This apparently fixed the problem. Does anyone have experience with this problem? Does anyone know of an easy method of cleaning these rubber rollers to prevent having the printer cut short prints. Best Regards, Ken
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