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KenTen

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KenTen last won the day on December 14 2016

KenTen had the most liked content!

About KenTen

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    Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania - USA
  1. Hello Ken, I'm beggining to have the same problem as you with the blue belts in the expo.

    Did you solve the problem?

  2. Blue Rubber

    OK. I put 12 FM7.25 belts on our DKS1710 machine (since that was all the company had) and it's working fine. I replaced the blue belts on the exposure deck. They are the belts that run across the two roller on the right and they uncurl the paper. I'll let you know how long they last. The belts measure as follows: .2" X .023" X 7.25" 184mm long (58.5mm diameter) X 0.6mm thick X 5mm wide
  3. DKS 1710 Tank Board Needed

    I'm looking for a DKS 1710 Tank CAN Board Part # N060 310 896 to keep for a spare. I had 3 of these but lent one out to my former tech and he never returned it. I sent him my second for repair and guess what? He never returned it. I can't find him now so I'm out of spares. Since these are finicky, I'd like to have one laying around for the busy season. Does anyone have a spare they want to sell or does someone know how to repair these boards? I was told by the elusive tech that the one large "chip" on the board was all that needed replacing when they went bad. Thanks for reading. Take care, Ken
  4. Yep. Just replaced dead DEV tank heater with 200W heater like recommended and it works fine. Thanks Pskaro. You can tell the heater is dead when it is short between the brown and blue wires. The good 200W heater I replaced it with read 257 ohms on the brown and blue wires. Thanks to Relaxia for the tip on the ohm meter test. Best regards, Ken
  5. DKS 1610 Racks not starting up

    Hi Ray, I connected the 9v battery to the two wires after removing them from screw connectors on the tank board. I was under the impression that you could remove these two wires from the tank board, connect them to 12V power, and continue to use the machine. I have not done this. I had the tank board repaired by an electronic technician who was unfamiliar with a DKS machine. He replaced a large "chip" that stood up from the board. He told me that this chip was the component that supplied 12V power to the rack motor connectors. I only removed the two wires and connected the battery under the directions of a DKS tech to determine the rack motor was operational. Hope this helps, Ken
  6. DKS 1610 Racks not starting up

    Hi Ray, I have a 1710. When this happened to me, I connected a 9v battery to the two big wires on the tank board (I think they were black and white) and the racks started to turn. This technique was suggested to me by a tech to determine if the motor was bad or not. After determining that the motor was working, I sent the board in to have the chip replaced and it fixed the problem. I've heard of people connecting a 12V power supply to these wires to fix the problem as well. I hope this help you. Take care, Ken
  7. DKS 3 - all pumps make strange sound

    Hi Sibi, Sure looks like a clogged water filter to me. I'd disconnect the water line from the pump and see if that stops the clicking. If so, you've got a clogged water filter. My water pumps clicked intermittently. I did what Perica suggests with the additional tubes and that alleviated all of my water pump clicking. I realize that is not what you're experiencing though. You seem to have a complete occlusion of your water line that is causing the pumps to strain due to their inability to draw water. The skipping of the plastic gear in the pump (clicking) is the built-in strain relief mechanism that keeps the pump motor from burning out. I have no experience with the celduc modules you mention, but I have a lot of experience with the type of clicking you show in your video and it has always been clogged filters for me. Good Luck, Ken
  8. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    OK I've got this figured out finally (I think). It was the foam tripping the overflow sensor. The drain hole was not clogged. That was evident when I drained the tank, filled it with water and heard the water running freely into the effluent tank It was the Axelcolor developer and small leaks in the Rev Pump line. It appears that the Axelcolor developer is more susceptible to foaming than the KIS developer. My rubber hoses from the concentrated developer to the REV pump were all degraded, hard and bulging. I ran a straight line of windshield washer hose from the auto parts store from the dip tube to the pump. This did not immediately fix the problem. The developer in the tank was apparently somewhat "carbonated". I remixed the tank with newer Axelcolor developer and the Rev pump started working reliably. I still have some foam though. I've asked Axelcolor a few times if this is a problem, and I haven't gotten a straight answer. After we slow down, I'll renew the tank with KIS developer and see if I still get foam. If the foam disappears, I'll likely avoid Axelcolor developer in the future. Happy Holidays to all. Thanks again to Ronnie and Relaxia for the help and thanks to all who read. Ken
  9. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    Thanks Ronnie and Relaxia for the reples. I'm using Axelcolor Chemistry now. I've had no problems with it in the past but I've never used it for high production. The foam seems to be the problem. Is there a defoamer that anyone has tried? I'm tempted to try some hot tub defoamer in the developer. Where was your drain hole clogged and how do you clean it Ronnie? Did you take the waste tanks off and run a brush through that tube going up? Or did you find it in the back of the tank and clean it from there? Ken
  10. Bent Print Corners Dks 1710

    Hi Everyone, I was getting bent print corners on prints near the end of the roll. I cleaned the turn plates in the beginning of the dryer, a normal print bending culprit, with no luck. It only happened on the last few prints of a roll so it was hard to catch and I wasn't too concerned. I figured the paper I had was a few months old and the curl was greater ..certainly near the end. I finally found the part that was doing the bending. There is a rod with a stainless steel plate under it on the very end of the processor tank. It is mounted on the side of the last Stab tank with 3 screws. The rollers were frozen with gunk and not turning freely at all. I removed the part, soaked it in hot water, and washed the stainless plate. No more bending! Hope this helps you if you're getting phantom bends. Take care, Ken
  11. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    I lowered the level in the Dev tank and it worked immediately in concert with the eauRev pump to top off the tank. Then it didn't work for a while and now it seems to be working fine. Go figure. I think the overflow hole on the back of the developer tank may have been partially plugged causing the tank to have an unnaturally high level. That's my theory for now. I'll check better when it slows down The level sensors were pretty dirty. That may have been contributing to the problem too. Thanks for reading and thanks for the support Ronnie. Ken
  12. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    Thanks for the idea. Maybe the drain hole is plugged up and the tank is over level. Seems weird that the eauRev pump wouldn't shut off too, but it's worth a try. I'll report on the possible effect the high level sensor has on replenishment pumps. I've noticed that the developer tank has foam on top. That's something I've never seen before. Does anyone know if there is a screen that shows the condition of all the sensors? I though tthere was a screen on this machine (DKS 1710) but I could be thinking of another we had. Ken
  13. Developer Pump Does Not Replenish Dks1710

    Here's another thought ..could I turn the CTO on in Chimie.exe, set it up to the same parameters as the developer, reroute the developer tubes to the CTO pump and get it to replenish developer that way? Ken
  14. Hi Everyone, My DKS 1710 is not replenishing the developer. The developer replenishment pump works if you go into Super User (SU) and try to calibrate it (40 turns), but when the machine is printing it does not work. All the other pumps (Blix, Stab, EauRev, EauBlix, EauStab) come on intermittently when the machine is printing but not the developer pump. I have checked in Chimie.exe and the pump is not disabled. I recently increased the developer replenishment rate in Chimie.exe because I thought we were under-replenishing due to poor blacks. I later found out that the EauRev (Developer Water) pump was running continuously. I thought perhaps it was due to a dirty level sensor, so I found the level sensors and cleaned them in the Dev tank. That seemed to stop the run-on water pump but I next noticed the developer replenisher bottle level on the side of the machine was not going down. I put a graduated cylinder on the dip tube and activated the developer replenisher pump in SU (40 turns). The pump did not make the cylinder level go down so I cleaned the Dev filter and the pump began drawing fluid from the cylinder. I thought my problems were solved when I noticed the bottle level was not going down again. Next I noticed that while the machine was printing, all of the pumps came on to replenish except the developer pump. Does anyone know why the developer pump would work when I activate it through SU (40 turns), but not when the machine is printing and normally replenishing? Thank you for reading, Ken
  15. Blue Rubber

    I got a belt that's close in size, texture, and stretch. It's from an 8-track player. Here's where I got it: http://www.ceitron.com/passive/flatMbelt.html It is FM7.25. It's a bit narrower but otherwise it looks like it will work. I'm going to get a set and try it out, I'll let everyone know. I'm still suffering with the short prints: http://www.minilabhelp.com/topic/23991-short-first-print-in-dks-1710/ Any ideas are appreciated. Take care, Ken
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