2017 - Minilab Help could face closure at the end of the year. Our outgoing running cost and time is no longer being covered by our sponsorship. 
With almost 10,000 members we have grown to be perhaps the worlds largest forum for Mini Lab Help. 
We would now consider the sale of this web site, please contact us if you wish to discuss. 

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    • NeilT

      Mini Lab Help.com For Sale   03/16/2017

      2017 - Minilab Help could face closure at the end of the year. Our outgoing running cost and time is no longer being covered by our sponsorship. 
      With almost 10,000 members we have grown to be perhaps the worlds largest forum for Mini Lab Help. 
      We would now consider the sale of this web site, please contact us if you wish to discuss. 

Big Dave

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Big Dave last won the day on December 12 2016

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  1. I just took an exacto knife, cut down the middle of the tube (along the length of the tubing, away from the pump output) then took needle nose pliers and slowly peel off the tubing. They use some type of glue to keep the hose in place (I think) then add the hose clamp This has worked for me, other users may let you know their methods. We bought replacement food grade tubing from Home Depot - same/similar diameter. Works fine with just the hose clamp, no extra glue needed.
  2. Noritsu 31 PRO Chemicals CD starter

    Yes, you need to add STB chemicals.
  3. Noritsu 31 PRO Chemicals CD starter

    Luis, Is that 41.63 liters for the CD, WITH the bottom rack in the machine ? wow, that's a lot of chems. I'm in the US, but still measure the chems in liters or mili-liters. Our Noritsu CD is set at 38.0 celsius. Turn on your Noritsu and find out what temperature the CD is set at. Just fill up the CD tank with water - turn on the Noritsu - and find out what temperature the CD is set at. Then you will know what to do. I would DOUBLE CHECK the replenishment rate in case your technician didn't set that correctly. For your CD chems, it looks like, Higher temps (38 C) = less chemistry needed / square meter of paper going through the machine and Lower temp (35 C) = more chemistry needed / square meter of paper going through the machine. If you are POSITIVE it is 41.63 liters, here's the math for either high or low temp solutions: FYI: THE REPLENISHER BELOW IS (CONCENTRATE + WATER) = REPLENISHER ! --- NOT CONCENTRATE -- GOT IT ? Higher temps (38 C) = 500ml Replenisher + 40ml Starter + 460ml Water = 1000ml of working tank solution = 1 liter multiplied by 41.63 = 20815ml of replenisher + 1665.2ml of starter + 19149.8ml of water = 41630ml of working tank solution = 41.630 Liters Lower temp (35 C) = 500ml Replenisher + 25ml Starter + 475ml Water = 1000ml of working tank solution = 1 liter multiplied by 41.63 = 20815ml of replenisher + 1040.75ml of starter + 19774.25ml of water = 41630ml of working tank solution = 41.630 Liters Microsoft Excel (or any other spreadsheet program) is GREAT for this -- just change the multiplier and you have your new numbers instantly. GOOD LUCK !
  4. Noritsu 31 PRO Chemicals CD starter

    12.5 gallons seems like A LOT for the CD tank - our 2901 CD is 19.6 liters or 5.8 gallons (with the bottom rack installed) http://www.minilabhelp.com/forums/topic/19607-thrown-into-the-mix-urgent-help-needed/#comment-29981 http://www.minilabhelp.com/forums/topic/18654-help-qss-2611/#comment-24870 I just did a search and a copy / paste of a reply I made to someone else a few years back: Do you have CD starter chemistry ??? You need it -- but only a little bit. Do you have any liquid measuring beakers/ jugs ? 100ml, 1000ml, 5000ml are useful. Also having a 10 or 20 Liter jug helps to mix working tanks. Is your machine RA or SM ? If SM, you won't be needing a replenishment tank mix except to mix your working tanks. With all racks in all tanks in the 2611, Remove the filter (the 2" round thing with the label on it that says "CD", "BF" or "STB") and fill completely with water, and drain and measure the output amount of water from each tank and write these numbers down for each tank. On the bottles of chemistry or in the box, there are mixing instructions for replenishment tank and for working tank Working tanks are the tanks on top that the paper goes through. Replenishment tanks are the tanks on the bottom that slowly feed the working tanks. There are 6 working tanks. First is the CD, then Bleach Fix, then 4 stabilizer You need to mix enough for the working tanks. Usually this means first mix the replenisment tank amount (mix) Then to make the working tank mix, add a certain amount of water to a certain amount of replenisment mix, then pour this into the working tank. For the CD tank, you'll also need to add a certain amount of CD Starter Chemical (all documented on the bottle, or on the instruction sheet in the box) - I think the BF also needs starter Since this is your first time, it will seem a bit difficult, but after you do it a couple of times, it's "nothing special". The first time I did this, I was stressing a lot, but after doing it a couple of times, it's just another "chore" --- I used Excel to do the math and refer to it whenever we need to replace any working tanks. So do some math: Let's assume 20 liters of working tank solution is required. You said: "1 RA-4 CDR makes a 10L mixed with water" so mixing BOTH bottles would give you 20 liters of REPLENISHER, but to make a working tank mix, you need XX ml of replenisher, YY ml of water and ZZ ml of CD Starter to get to a final total of 20,000 ml = 20 liters. The Champion CD Replenisher we use mixes like this: 1 bottle of concentrate (3420ml) + 6580ml of water = 10,000 ml = 10 liters of REPLENISHER In this example, we need 20 liters to make enough to fill our working tank, so we look on our sheet (included with our chemistry) to calculate how to make a working tank mix, so our example sheet says: 700ml of Replenisher + 25ml of Starter + 275ml of Water = 1 liter of working tank solution (mix) so to take that 1 liter of working tank solution and make 20 liters of working tank solution, take the above #'s (700, 25 and 275) and multiply by 20 so now we have: 14000ml of Replenisher + 500 ml of Starter + 5500 ml of Water = 20,000 ml = 20 liters of working tank solution SO NOW, you can mix the exact amount of Replenisher that you need, or mix all the replenisher (20 liters) and only use 14000ml of it to make your working tank solution (then take the remaining 6000ml of replenisher and put it in your replenishment tank). YOUR numbers will probably be different, this is just an example. Hope this helps.
  5. 2901 intermittent lines

    Just to let everyone know, the machine is doing much better after a very good cleaning of the Image Processing Board area. - all fans were working. The day after cleaning, we had 3 prints with the lines all day, and no lines since then. Thanks for everyone's help ! BTW, 18 year old machines are a little "finicky"....
  6. 2901 intermittent lines

    kodak_service, sent you a message. minilab service - we will check fans and clean around the image processing board after we close today.
  7. Hi all, We are getting these inch long lines intermittently on prints - sometimes, just 1 line, up to 20 or 30 lines - NO error messages are displayed, and the daily setup looks beautiful. After our first day with this problem, we performed the MLVA "fix" steps (internal calibrator gain adjustment, Load voltage Adjustment, Uniformity Pattern 2, 3, 4 delete UNF_FB.dat, copy UNF01.dat as UNF_FB.dat, Uniformity Pattern 1). This mostly fixed it for a few days, but it's back again. Same as before. Very random, doesn't happen to every print, usually blue on lighter backgrounds, sometimes orange on dark areas. Always happens on the same areas on the prints (towards the rear of the machine as you face the printer on your left and processor on your right), doesn't matter if it's the print coming down the center of the lane, or when 2 prints come out together, there is no discernable pattern, always on wallet or 4x6 size, has not yet appeared on 5x7 or larger size prints, variable length lines, max of 19mm in length. Last time something similar happened, but was a problem with a cracked/damaged color filter wheel. This time, I don't know the cause, but I haven't checked the color filter wheel. What do you think it is ? (The sample pictures - the lines are there, but these have the minimum # of lines, the ones before had more.)
  8. Hello I'm wondering if you are able to tell me anything about the QSS 34pro. I may have a chance top purchase one and I was wondering if its a good machine. I have never had a digital Noritsu, so before I spend money I would like to pick your brain.

     

    1. Big Dave

      Big Dave

      I'm not a Noritsu tech, just a lab owner.

      Never had a 34xx machine, so can't say if it's a good deal or not.

      How much ?

       

       

  9. Admin Password for 3011

    When/where is it asking for a password ? If you are getting this type of message on system boot up: Sounds like it may be a problem with the hard drive and the operating system files. Does windows start up, or do you get an error that says : "Windows failed to load because the kernel is missing or corrupt" ? If so, then a CHKDSK may fix it, Google "windows kernel missing" and look for a link to your version of Windows.
  10. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Want to sell: Noritsu 2901 Keyboard - clean, working keyboard removed from working machine. I don't know what it's valued at, so will take Best offer Plus freight from California, USA

    20.00 GBP

  11. after print 1 day later, DX100 problem print

    Probably a clogged ink head. Have the fuji tech check it out.
  12. Don't be so hasty. Not all antivirus will catch everything, and some antivirus programs will give a false "positive" to some software saying it is/has a virus when it is not. drytech, what antivirus software are you using ? What was the name of the file ? If it's not a critical installation related file, maybe pepe can delete it from his Google drive so it doesn't happen to anyone else ? Fine, it detected a problem file and deleted it, that's great. After it was deleted everything else was "clean". Did you try to install ? Maybe pepe's computer IS infected, and that archive file GOT infected with a virus file. Your antivirus caught it and got rid of it, now it's clean. Install it, now that it's clean. If pepe has been using it with no problems, I don't see a problem with it. Then again, it was "free". Pepe, I don't have a Noritsu that can take advantage of EZ Controller, but can you PM me a link to your files ? I'd like to see if my antivirus finds it. I am interested.
  13. help with a 2901

    Magenta has great suggestions. We had days of very low prints and started getting a similar blue problem. So, we added 2 liters of fresh CD replenisher to the CD working tank. Brought back the blacks very well. Added 0.5L, do daily setup, still blue-ish, add some more, repeat until it looked good (enough). Just to be safe, we added some fresh BF to the BF tanks to even it out. Is it an SM machine or an RA machine ? If it's RA, just use the CD from the replenishment tank. If it's SM, it's tougher, but still do-able. 1) buy some CD replenisher mix or 2) pull the right chems out of the correct SM pack nozzles, do some math, mix it up and pour it in. Good luck !
  14. New Look and New Server

    Ok, thanks, but seems to be more WORK for you than the old system that allowed users to manually delete their own attachments regardless of age.... Just an FYI. Thanks again Neil
  15. New Look and New Server

    Sorry Neil, on the old thread posted April 4, 2013, there is no option to edit the post or to delete the attachment.
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