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V100 still not working after "100V POWER FAILURE" and change of PCB Boards

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We have a V100 machine that had a "100V POWER FAILURE" message, it stopped heating the chemicals and the Dryer stopped working. And, after checking the manual, we figured out it may have 1 or more of 4 problems. Either the Power PCB 1, Power PCB 2, Main Control PCB and/or the Transformer went down. After analyzing the circuits we noticed 4 SSRs from the Power PCB 1 blew out and decided to change it thinking it was the only problem it had. We also supposed they just blew because it had TONS of dust over it.

We checked the configuration it had, bought a new one, put the same jumper configuration and connected it exactly like the previous one was connected, but after changing it the problem didn't disappear :(.

We have a spare V50 (that's missing many gears, racks and the Drive Motor), and they both share (or supposedly share) the same Power PCB 2 and Main Control PCBs, so this morning we changed them, again copying the original configuration from the V100. And the problem did disappear, but other ones came out.

The machine says the Thermosensors for the STB1 and STB2 are not working and it's still not heating the chemicals for any of the tanks. The odd thing is that, checking the manual, the V100 doesn't have a thermosensor for the STB1 nor the STB2, just for the STB3 and that one is working well. Also, some of the menus are different from the way we had them before.

Our supposition is that the PCB board software, despite being the same model, has to be reconfigured so it can identify correctly the machine and start working all right, but we don't know how to do the reconfiguration or even if that is the problem.

Hope someone can help us out ! Thanks to everyone in advance !

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I'm guessing the V50 was an SM model? If so you will need to load RA Software. Download it from here and put on to a floppy disk. https://www.dropbox.com/s/illdghwcppbmwwq/V series RA C002.exe?dl=0

If you look to the right of the SSR's you will see some red LED's, when lit the heaters should be on. There is an LED for each heater, if these LED's are not lighting check the ribbon cable connection between the Power PCB 1 and Power PCB 2.

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Greetings once again. 

On 10/15/2018 at 8:24 AM, Dave S said:

I'm guessing the V50 was an SM model? If so you will need to load RA Software. Download it from here and put on to a floppy disk. https://www.dropbox.com/s/illdghwcppbmwwq/V series RA C002.exe?dl=0

 

Took me some days to find a good floppy. Copied the files from the extractor to the disk because i tried to write directly on the floppy from the VSeries exe  and it detected some errors. Tried to make an update but after choosing language #4 the screen went blank then completely dark and got back to the beginning with the thermosensor error. Should i read the disk? Or what was the thing to do? Sorry for my confusion :/  

 

So, how do i load the RA Software??

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If the extractor is detecting some errors either the floppy disk is bad or the floppy drive heads are dirty, or the floppy drive is bad.

The only other way I think will work is to swap the 2 largish chips from one board to another assuming the chips are in sockets on both boards.

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Alright, got some news. Made the update after removing the IMZ file that got there i don't know how. After finishing the update an EPROM error appeared but also, all heaters turned on as well! We are running into some trouble with the left cutter but we are testing the first roll to be developed in 31 days! Stay tuned!

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Error 057 

"EEPROM  ERROR

Initialize Data"

Got to initialize the EEPROM? Is it safe?

Put a 135mm roll to develop. Came out nicely. A bit dirty because it spent a month turned on irregularly but besides that seems alright! Got a left cutter error but we can manage to fix that

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Great sounds like you are making progress!

Yes it is safe to initialize the EE-PROM data. Go to MAIN MENU -> FLOPPY/STANDARD SETTING -> DATA INITIALIZATION -> EE-PROM

After you do that, check the process specification is correct (V100), check the settings in standard setting 3 are correct.

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There's a problem with the left cutter right now. The Standard Setting is not appearing right now, not sure what is going on. Maybe when the left cutter issue goes away we can do the EE-PROM initialize. Will show any progress as soon as the left cutter issue disappears. So fart thank you for all this support. Without the update we would be here!

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Alright. The cutter error goes away. Now i am kind of worried that the menu goes like this: MAIN MENU -> FLOPPY. There is no Standard Setting option anymore. Tried using the SHIT + - + password but it gets rejected. Getting the EE-PROM error every time i turn on the machine. Beyond that the processor is fine. Wondering if we have to change a battery or something from the EE-PROM, like other computers and such?

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Oh dear.

Remove the power 1 PCB and check it, the biggest problem is the solder joints on the SSR's cracking, then arcing,  re soldering the joints is all that is needed. If it's burnt then you can solder an insulated wire link to the appropriate place.

Check you don't have some kind of leak of chemistry etc that has dripped onto the board, If the CD rack is not carefully removed it can drip into the loading box, and then find it's way into the circuit board area.

For the standard setting menu to appear it needs to be in service mode. The easiest way to to turn on dip switch no.2 on the main control PCB, you can leave it on permanently if you like.

Edited by Dave S

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Wow, feels risky but we have to try. Also about the CD rack we don't usually move it around unless there is a repair required.

 

Thanks and sorry for so much questions lately. It's been a scary time to be honest, and we're not even 2 days away from Halloween yet! (alright that was a bad joke)

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After more than a year we finally found a TR1 transformer. We want to believe this will be the thing we need to fix the machine. We hope this is all we need to go back to business because we are in deep financial trouble now

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Honestly I would be surprised if the transformer is faulty, these transformers tend to be very robust. There are 1 or 2 small trip switchs attached to the transformer to protect it in the event of a short circuit.

Ideally you need to measure what voltage is going into the transformer and what voltages are coming out of the transformer to determine if it is faulty or not.

Edited by Dave S

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