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Fuji 370 Door Open Error


azdigital
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In kind of a difficult spot, any ideas will help.

After completing Conditioning Prints and Densitometer checks (all good) we sent a couple prints to the printer. We heard a kind of a "Ka-chunck, Ka-chuck" sound and the printer began spitting errors.

We received an E2624 Safety thermostat on PS1 error, and W2611 Processing Tank/Dryer Section Cover error, we acknowledged those and then we are left with a “Door Open” error which wouldn’t clear.

Same errors appear now every time we restart.

Using the Printer I/O pages I have checked the pumps and I can see we have good circulation in the tanks.

Looking at the door switches we are showing that the D-790 processing tank, D744 replenisher door and the D-781 dryer cover all show open on the I/O pages. We have manually activated them and none of them show any change on the I/O pages.

We have restarted several times and can’t past the initial start-up, none of the heaters have come up since then “sound”. I have switched the PS1 D710 thermostat with the PS2 D711 and it made no difference.

We checked the PAC22 & PAC23 connectors on the PAC20 card and they seem good.

I have checked every circuit breaker I can locate….

I’d like to check the DC power supply but I’m not keen on getting shocked…but if I knew what I was looking for from the different connections I’d check it too. Unfortunately I’m not sure what voltages I am looking for.

Also, when the test points indicate PGRD, DGRD and AGRD what does that mean?

Fire away I am ready to execute and report back to everyone  :)

Or if you know a good technician in the Tucson or Phoenix area I’ll be glad to spend some money  :-/

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I have seen this quite a few times, to verify it's the same issue I am thinking of. Check the CP3 fuse on the PAC20 board. If it's blown, You will need to replaced that fuse along with the motor driver board and the motor. What you have is a transistor package on that board that has shorted out. The reason for all the errors is because the door interlocks and the safety thermostats all run off the same voltage line. Which of course is now cut off... Let me know what you find. I am pretty sure this is it.

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To check a fuse you need to use the ohms setting or continuity on a digital multimeter. You should get a beep on continuity if it's good and zero ohms on the ohms display if it's good.

If it's bad. No beep and High/infinate ohms on the meter.

Of course you will need to take the board out of the machine to test this fuse and replace it.

You will want to replace the motor driver board and motor before you put the board back in with the good fuse or it will just blow again.

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