jjfury Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I have this problem that I am dealing with. My machine is giving me lamp burnout after 30 prints. than I leave it for about 10 mins to cool down then it switch on again ' than I do an other 30 prints than it gose burnout again and keeps on going like that . after 10 mins of cooling it light up again. dose any one know what it wrong please. DKS1550 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAMERA HOUSE Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Thermal fuse next to lamp is weak. Replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minilab service Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Also check voltage on the lamp. Maybe it is too high and lamp is overheated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskaro Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Also check the lamp fan and clean it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjfury Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 I have changed the Thermal fuse and it is still the same . I have changed the connector of the lamp and still the same. the fan still working. I was thing maybe it is the AIRPAX THERMAL SWITCH? could it be it? because if it was the fuse I think it dose not work at all, but my problem is that it start working again when it cools down. I made a LLCD Stability before I had this problem. could it be connected with the LLCD Stability? and the LCD response? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grreg Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Your lamp power supply is weak - is to change open the cover behind machine to see lamp power supply and when lamp burn out check that green led on the power supply is on or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minilab service Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 If you have not correct voltage on power supply ( voltage is too low ) than can be PFC circuit fault. Few times repaired lamp power supply with this fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAMERA HOUSE Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 There is a micro screw on power supply(at the back in centre block, bottom left) next to green indicator lamp. Connect meter and turn that screw very slowly 90 degree at a time untill you get 24 volt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nyohan Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 should be adjusted to 20V for lamp power supply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottuk Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 Hi I am helping my friend JJFury I am an electronic engineer but he is not so I am hoping to instruct him to fix it (unfortunately I am in UK and he is in Malta) are you saying the lamp power supply is adjustable to allow the voltage to be changed? Can you put a picture of where the adjustment should be so I can instruct him also where is the best place to measure the voltage, at the lamp contacts or is there a place on the back of the machine to check the output of the supply while doing the adjustment? Also someone said 24V but Nyohan says 20V which is correct? Thanks for your replies so far it is very useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minilab service Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 Hello Scot. It is 18-35V power supply FAB-340W-DKS2 ( p.n. 060375998A ). You should have about +20V at the power supply output ( +19.5 on the lamp contacts ) , so at first measure voltage on power supply output. You can adjust voltage with potentiometer in power supply. If you can't adjust correct voltage on power supply ( voltage is too low ) then it can be PFC circuit fault. Few times repaired lamp power supply with this fault. If you will have +20V at power supply output, but you have not 20V on the lamp, then check circuit between lamp and power supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxia Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Factory settings say: 19.5V on the lamp connection on the top(orange terminal), around 21V on the THIN orange wire at the power supply output. FAB's were a little problematic choice for KIS, seems that even with the nominal power they were working at the edge of efficiency, and had tendences to overheat... Check if all capacitors inside are OK. THe best power supply for the KIS is Martek. if you don't figure out what's goin on, call service for a new MARTEK power supply (wonder how much it costs now... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjfury Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Relaxia, do you know type of power supply is? so I will look for one and order it please. what kind of current and volts etc. please thank you for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskaro Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Check the fan on the lamp PS (if that PS have one) if it is working. Try to disconnect that small white connector on lamp PS near Green LED, that will make the lamp ON all the time, but if that works then the controlling circuit for the lamp power inside the PS is bad, but then you can switch the position between the two PS in the machine, but off course you have to readjust the voltages, 20.5V (actually 19.5V near lamp), on lamp PS, and 24V on the other one. I had case like that and this switch done the trick as the other 24V PS is always ON by default, and does not need to control the OFF/ON output as the lamp PS needs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottuk Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 That's great thanks Minilab Service for a very informative reply and to the others who replied this helps a great deal 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxia Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 jjfury, scottUK - Minilab Service gave you FAB data. Martek one is named KIS 280 2A 03 G3. It is a regulated power supply 18-35V 220W. Pskaro is giving you a very good advice. DKS1500 has 2 such power supplies inside and you can switch them if really a control circuit or switch-off circuit is failing. Doing this you MUST remember 2 things: 1. IT IS MANDATORY TO SET nominal voltage output on both power supplies (24V inside KIS PS, values mentioned above for the lamp.) before you run DKS.exe. If you forget this - whole machine will get crazy since 24V from KIS PS is powering all stepmotors. 2. Very good thing is to apply new thermal paste uniformly under the PS surface . Especially on lamp one. Do it an you will forget about issues for quite long time. Use Wacker P12 or other silicone based paste with better Wk Factor Right pskaro ? If yo want to put inside something else - remember you have to have at least 24V.It can be quite hard to find a controlled output part and such power - need to look 250W or more - but finally not impossible. Problem is that for tha lamp at least it is advisable to use original PS since they are driven to switch off the lamp. Otherwise you will lost the fortune on bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjfury Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Thank you very much pskaro for your great advice. This will help me allot. Thank you both Thank God that we have this forum for helping me dealing with my problem. I will update you when I do this. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskaro Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Use Wacker P12 or other silicone based paste with better Wk Factor Right pskaro ? Off course it is recommended to put a NEW thermal paste before assembling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjfury Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Check the fan on the lamp PS (if that PS have one) if it is working. That was it Pskaro, You were right from the beginning as always. great man. 8) Thank you. Now I need to find that fan from some were . it is very small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskaro Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 You can put bigger PC 12V fan outside, just cut a biger hole/sguare in that plate, that is what I done on one unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjfury Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Will do for sure. Thank you again. I think that the fan that it got is very small compeer the heat there is in side. It will be better as you said bigger fan. Thank you very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxia Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 jjfury - after several years of continous work each fan has right to break -even the best ones. look man - this small fan was working for you how long ? 6 8 years? how long for the previous owner ? bigger fan will not be good unless you cut bigger hole in the cover, like pskaro said. look for typical graphic card fan coolers 40mm size (without heatsinks)- U can have it for 4-5 EUR. buying right one u dont need to cut anything more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjfury Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 The PC it got like a heatsink at the back . It has works for about 7 years. I will try a similar fan first , if it do the same I do a bigger fan and cut a bigger hole like Pskaro said. Thank you for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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