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dks 1550 lamp burnout


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I have this problem that I am dealing with. My machine is giving me lamp burnout after 30 prints. than I leave it for about 10 mins to cool down then it switch on again ' than I do an other 30 prints than it gose burnout again  and keeps on going like that . after 10 mins of cooling it  light up again.

dose any one know what it wrong please.


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I have changed the Thermal fuse and it is still the same . I have changed the connector of the lamp and still the same. the fan still working.

I was thing maybe it is the AIRPAX THERMAL SWITCH? could it be it? because if it was the fuse I think it dose not work at all, but my problem is that it start working again  when it cools down.

I  made a  LLCD Stability  before I had this problem. could it be connected with the LLCD Stability? and the LCD response?

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Hi I am helping my friend JJFury I am an electronic engineer but he is not so I am hoping to instruct him to fix it (unfortunately I am in UK and he is in Malta) are you saying the lamp power supply is adjustable to allow the voltage to be changed?

Can you put a picture of where the adjustment should be so I can instruct him also where is the best place to measure the voltage, at the lamp contacts or is there a place on the back of the machine to check the output of the supply while doing the adjustment?

Also someone said 24V but Nyohan says 20V which is correct?

Thanks for your replies so far it is very useful.

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Hello Scot. It is 18-35V power supply FAB-340W-DKS2 ( p.n. 060375998A ). You should have about +20V at the power supply output ( +19.5 on the lamp contacts ) , so at first measure voltage on power supply output. You can adjust voltage with potentiometer in power supply. If you can't adjust correct voltage on power supply ( voltage is too low )  then it can be PFC circuit fault. Few times repaired lamp power supply with this fault.

If you will have +20V at power supply output, but you have not 20V on the lamp, then check circuit between lamp and power supply.  

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Factory settings say: 19.5V on the lamp connection on the top(orange terminal), around 21V on the THIN orange wire at the power supply output.

FAB's were a little problematic choice for KIS, seems that even with the nominal power they were working at the edge of efficiency, and had tendences to overheat... Check if all capacitors inside are OK.

THe best power supply for the KIS is Martek. if you don't figure out what's goin on, call service for a new MARTEK power supply (wonder how much it costs now... :)  )

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Check the fan on the lamp PS (if that PS have one) if it is working.

Try to disconnect that small white connector on lamp PS near Green LED, that will make the lamp ON all the time, but if that works then the controlling circuit for the lamp power inside the PS is bad, but then you can switch the position between the two PS in the machine, but off course you have to readjust the voltages, 20.5V (actually 19.5V near lamp), on lamp PS, and 24V on the other one.

I had case like that and this switch done the trick as the other 24V PS is always ON by default, and does not need to control the OFF/ON output as the lamp PS needs  ;)

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jjfury, scottUK - Minilab Service gave you FAB data.

Martek one is named KIS 280 2A 03 G3. It is a regulated power supply 18-35V 220W.

Pskaro is giving you a very good advice. DKS1500 has 2 such power supplies inside and you can switch them if really a control circuit or switch-off circuit is failing.

Doing this you MUST remember 2 things:

1. IT IS MANDATORY TO SET nominal voltage output on both power supplies (24V inside KIS PS, values mentioned above for the lamp.) before you run DKS.exe. If you forget this - whole machine will get crazy since 24V from KIS PS is powering all stepmotors.

2. Very good thing is to apply new thermal paste uniformly under the PS surface . Especially on lamp one. Do it an you will forget about issues for quite long time.

Use Wacker P12 or other silicone based paste with better Wk Factor

Right pskaro ? ;)

If yo want to put inside something else - remember you have to have at least 24V.It can be quite hard to find a controlled output part and such power - need to look 250W or more - but finally not impossible.

Problem is that for tha lamp at least it is advisable to use original PS since they are driven to switch off the lamp. Otherwise you will lost the fortune on bulbs.

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  • 2 weeks later...

jjfury - after several years of continous work each fan has right to break -even the best ones.

look man - this small fan was working for you how long ? 6 8 years? how long for the previous owner ? :)

bigger fan will not be good unless you cut bigger hole in the cover, like pskaro said.

look for typical graphic card fan coolers 40mm size (without heatsinks)- U can have it for 4-5 EUR.

buying right one u dont need to cut anything more :)

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