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Help- Stab circulation pump is blocked


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guys,

I checked by pressing the filters as suggested by Tapzkie and the ones for the developer and bleach are vibrating. The one in the last stabilizer tank is also vibrating a little but the two middle stabilizer tanks are not vibrating at all. I have clean the tanks thoroughly but no luck. Anyone have any idea what it could be?

Thanks.

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Maybe is not rotating properly ?

First, try to clean the Pump Turbine which is bellow the filters, first remove the plastic "crown" and then remove this pump turbine which has permanent magnet inside. Clean the small axe and hole on this pump turbine, but also check for the presence off the black plastic ring bellow which is responsible to lower the friction.

If it is in bad shape or it is missing, then change it or make new one from green bushing (cut it to obtain 0.5-1mm ring).

Also it could be issue with temperature sensor as on this machines (and DKS750), temperature sensor actually has two sensors inside one is near top, and another is near bottom, and if temperature circulation is not good then the difference in measuring off this two sensor is out off the range, you can try to switch one from bl-fix and see what is happening.

Regarding the error, machine can read only the circulation problem in the first stb tank (near bl-fix) because other two do not have sensor and temperature is regulated with one in first stb tank for all stb tanks.

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guys,

I still have the following two errors.

1.low stabilizer temperature

2.stabilizer circulation pump blocked.

As for the  temperature sensor,  I see two rods in the tanks, one thin one and a thicker one, which one is the temparature sensor and how do i remove it?

I have thoroghly cleaned the pump and the whole tank but once I turn on the machine, the bleach and developer heats up but the stabilizer temparature goes up a little and then goes down and never gets ready.

I checkd the fuses on the right hand side of the machine next to the power switch and the one in the middle is not working. When I looked at manuals this is what it says.(• F2 = 10 A protects the tank card, heating elements and drying unit).

Any thoughts on what could be the problem and how to resolve?

I will order the fuse to see whether it helps.

Thanks guys.

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The temperature sensor is the long rod (approx 1.5 feet long). If I'm not mistaken it is located in the 2nd stabilizer tank (there is only 1 stab temp sensor, the two other stab tanks don't have temp sensors. You need to clean the stab pump body and turbine where the temp sensor is installed. If the pump is clean and the sensor is OK, you may have a problem with the agitation or circulation motor, it is the motor just below the pump body below the chemical tank.

BTW, can you check if the power supply of your machine is 220V? a low voltage (less than 208V) sometimes causes the circulation motors to stop. If this is the case you may need to plug the step up transformer near the tank PCB.

If you have a dead Fuse 2 all heaters will not work. I think F2 is OK.

Hope this helps

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Guys,

Thanks for your replies. I traced the sensor and cleaned all of them. I also cheked and made sure that the voltage to the machine is 220V.

After starting the machine, the temparature was going up very very slowly. After an hour or two, I get the error msg "Pre-heat error". Now even the developer and bleach are not warming up.

I Just bought the F2 fuse but have not yet installed it.

Any thoughts on what to do if the fuse is not the problem?

Thanks again for all your help.

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Hello,

I did not mention that I had another error before the temparature problem with a pump that showed red as illustrated in the attached diagram. The machine operated fine for months with this "problem" and the water was being pumped into the tanks even though it showed red instead of green.

Thanks.

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If all the chemicals are not heating up, its possibly the Fuse 2.

If fuse 2 is not the problem, you might want to check the chemical levels, make sure there is NO chemical level shows RED.

Check if the AMBER light near the main switch is ON.

As for your RED H20 pump problem, its probably the magnetic float switch/sensor (located in the wall of the water tank). The H20 tank has two sensor/switch and  the lower sensor normally gets busted.

Dont worry a busted H20 float switch doesn't make any harm on your machine as long as there is water in the tank, It will only show red on the user interface but it wont show any error on the chemical part.

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Nyohan,

I changed the fuse, the temparature in the stabilizer tank reached 30.2 degrees and then i get the error "stab pump is blocked".

I switched the stabilizer sensor with the bl fix one and the error follows the stabilizer hswitch.

I have now isolated the problem to that sensor, the sensor looks clean, should I get a new sensor or could the problem be something

else at the other end of that sensor?

Thanks.

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When you switched the location two sensors, did you also switched their respective connectors? If this is what you did and the error shows BLeach circ pump is blocked, then I can say that its a sensor problem and I suggest you get a new one

If you just switched their positions without exchanging their connectors and the error shows Bleach circ pump is blocked, then you might have a problem with the pump body or motor.

hope this helps

happy new year to you

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Hi Nyohan,

I unscrewed the one screw that connects the sensor to the machine, pulled both the Bl fix and Stab sensors from the tanks and swapped them.

Are you asking if I seperated the "alluminium"rod from the plastic part of the sensor? If that  is the question then the answer is no.

I swapped the positions of the sensors as they are without uncrewing them from the plastic part.

Thanks and Happy new year to you too.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Try checking the motor itself.  open back panel of machine where the waste tanks is, that is on the oposite side of the chemical door.  there you will see tree plastic tanks that is the waste tanks.  If you remove them you can get to the motors that drives the circulation.  Most probably the first stabilser tank's motor is broken and that is why there is no circulation.

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Guys,

I finally got a chance to take a look at my DKS 1550 again and this is what I found.

I swapped the Bleach and Stabilizer sensor connectors that goes to the sensor in the tank and it appears that the problem is not the sensor but likely the motor that goes to the stabilizer tank.

The problem followed the stabilizer connetor and not the stabilizer sensor. Would there be any problem if I swap the second stabilizer motor with the first? Is this something that I should try or should I just buy a new motor and replace it?

Also please let me know if you think the problem is not what I think it is.

Thanks,

Abdi

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if i'm not mistaken the 3rd stab does not have a sensor then you can swap their motors, no error will show on the 3rd stab even with a faulty motor because there is no sensor. The only slight problem here is temperature uniformity on the 3rd stab, you might want to disable the stab 3 heater by unplugging it to avoid over heating.

But if you can easily source the motor then just replace it. You might also want to replace the pump body too. A faulty/broken pump body will make your motor harder to rotate and might cause the same problem again

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  • 2 years later...

Hi Everyone,

I am having similar problems, but i'm getting the error message that all three circulation pumps are blocked!!!

I would understand if one went, but all three in one night!!!

Before we got these error messages there was a surge which caused the main trip switch on the buildings power supply to trip - could my machine have blown a fuse? If so which one will it most likely be?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Graham.

P.S. The machine is a DKS 1510

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  • 3 weeks later...

Problably that power surge blown out the SSR (solid state relay) which controls the pump, there are two options, to change the faulty one or to connect the pump to the wall socket with indipendent cable, but then they will be always ON.

One off my customer solved it like that and because in Croatia it is hard to find the SSR and on the DKS750 there is no spare (on the DKS 15XX there is one spare) I leave it like that.

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