Jump to content

slow heater??


Recommended Posts

As some of you will know, I have just bought a 2611 for spares. Having stripped and cleaned I put it back together, as it is in much better general condition than my working machine, and now testing with a view to stripping my old machine out.

  Having set the timer for a 6am wakeup I was surprised to find that the stabaliser tanks had not started to warm. only when I brought the machine up to operational mode did the heater seem to kick in. Once started it seems to bring the tanks upto temp. in good time, and hold it.

  I left the machine sitting in timer mode untill 9am, both dev&bleach were up to temp. but the stabaliser had not budged.

Bring machine upto operational mode ? (c/d 35.0 b/f 35.0 stb 20.5)  Yes


Processing solution temperature is being adjusted.

went into menu, checked temp. setting and actual, checked with thermometer, all output reading correct.

  25 mins later the tank is up to temperature.

  Anyone with any ideas on this?

And yes, for all you storm chasers, the weather is spectacularly windy wet and cold. Wish I had some time to do the coast, maybe if I get no custom by mid-day I'll go for a wander. but missed the high tide......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm, thanks Dave.

    I did wonder that myself, but the STB is set to 33c, at the moment all tanks are holding at +0.2c of set temp (35,35,33).

   Having gone through the parts manual I can find no mention of heating elements, only the 'thermistor', of which there are three. I presume this is a combined heater and thermostat, if so it would be relatively simple (I assume) to pillage my old machine and swop over for a test, before playing with boards?

Looking at the machine before stripping, it did look as if someone had been delving in that area previously (missing and loose screws), so you may well be spot on the money.

Re_setting the temp. to 35 the heater reacted almost immediately, rose to new setting within a few mins and holding steady.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No the heater is separate from the thrmister.

The heater is behind the black cover, it has a fairly thick grey wire going to it.

In my manual it is in the tank unit section 3.2, part No. is I029060-00

This may be the old part number for the heater, as the heaters were updated.

The updated heaters (have a non reset able internal thermal fuse fitted for safety) have a black elbow where the wire connects to the heater; the old type (no thermal fuse fitted) has a grey elbow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks spot on Dave, presume ssr1,2&3 are the boys (along with x1,2&3). Should the board be running (and heaters working) with led8&9 lit? I have simply swapped boards, the replacement  board has at some time had ssr1,2,3 replaced, with a bridge added across (looking at back of board) from the top pin on ssr3 to pin on f12. Is that ok, or to make up for someones dodgy soldering? The board does seem to work though (it certainly was on my old machine), and machine now back upto temp. Lets see what a few days of use brings........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

X1 is the main heater power relay (CD,BF,STB) LED 8 indicates X1 is on.

SSR 1 is for the CD heater. LED 11 indicates the heater is on.

SSR 2 is for the BF heater. LED 10 indicates the heater is on.

SSR 3 is for the STB heater. LED 9 indicates the heater is on.

X2 & X3 are the power relays for the dryer heater.

These boards tended to overheat and would burn off the tracks in the worse case, hence the reason why your board has a bridging wire!

There was a modification for this board, which involved replacing the board and the fitting of a heat shield to shield the board from the heat of the dryer.

Also the heaters should have been replaced as well.

Both the Processor Relay board and the replacement of the heaters are Rank A modifications which should have been carried out F.O.C years ago.

Maybe worth speaking to Noritsu to see if they will at the very least send you the modified parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, that's a bit interesting Dave.

The SSR 2 was loose (solder missing and scorching evident). I wonder how that would have  affected my insurance.

I will try speaking to Noritsu tomorrow, but I'm not going to hold my breath.

Interestingly, I was watching the board (old) before I changed them. SSR 1&2 were cycling and SSR 3 was on permanently.

With the 'new' board fitted, it was exactly the same even after the stab tanks reached temp. This was why I posed the question. I shall have to take the panels off again tomorrow and watch carefully.

Thanks Dave S, a timely warning. My Contact printer uses the 2611 chassis complete with processor , I shall have a look at the modified board and shielding (the machine is just 12mths old).

Interestingly, the bleach heater was showing much more scorching than either of the others, which again points to SSR 2.

I need a decent meter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...