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noritsu mp1600


daggwood

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Hi,

  I am thinking about purchasing a reconditioned mp 1600 printer and would like to chat with anyone about the printer and your experience with it. Does any one know what I should be paying for a reconditioned unit.  I got a quote of 30K with a 90 day warranty.  Is this a good price?  What problems if any should I be anticipating?   Any and all information that you can share would be invaluable and much appreciated.  Thank you in advance for your imput.

Thanks,

Mike  

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Where are you? (30K in what format?) Pounds USD Shillings rupees, ruffies?  ;D

I'm in the US so all my quotes will be USD.

Find out how many exposures and time is on it. There are two counters below the on switch (close to the floor) Top one is hour meter and bottom is print count. Both readings will sell us a clue about what it's done.

It will cost about 2k per year to keep it in good shape. 1k in real parts and 1k set aside to purchase a filter wheel every 4 or 5 years. (sound about right, all you mp users?)

Is it a stand alone, or a 27XX?  SM or RA?  Coming from a 1 hour or pro lab?

I have had a 2301 and Mp1600. Both use the same processor. The only diff is MP uses fiber optics to communicate to the printer. One or two boards are different but all other  hard parts are the same.

The first thing I would lose is the number 2 turn guide. This (as does the 2301) uses soft sponge rollers in the CD turn guide. The only reason for this is so you will buy new ones in a year when those wear out. :K) I've been using a number 6 turn guide in it's place for a long time. The only other thing that I don't like about the processor design is the top plastic part of the rack. It, by design, will make your machine run filthy if you don't clean it often.

Don't forget even if it's a stand alone it will have a software package and a PCI card to put in a PC. Otherwise your looking at 10 to 12K to get said stand alone kit for Noritsu.

One thing to check if the machine is operational is print contrast. It is directly affected by the condition of the filter wheel. (a 5000 dollar part) Pro paper like supra will not look good if the filter wheel needs replacing. Royal and edge will look better so see if you can do a MLVA setup with Supra and check print quality.

Check the mag balances and look for someone jacking up the contrast to compensate for a bad filter wheel. (long enough to gig you with the machine) >:(

First design and second design MLVA heads......Doesn't really matter. Some might ring in and argue this but I don't think it's a big deal. I think it's a bigger deal to have the second design power supply than the head.

There are a few other things that you'll want to check if your getting serious. I'll advise if you need. Overall it's a great machine with a bullitproof print head and fast printer.

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  • 4 weeks later...

This is a great printer. Fast and pretty realiable. And now you can pick up a reconditioned one for very cheap. (I recommend a stand alone with a powerful PC)

Mechanically it does need some maintanance from time to time. Gears and rollers need the most replacing on the crossover racks like retired mentioned in his post.

I have experienced problems with the two arms that grab the paper. They need to be adjusted once a year. They tend to become uneven, causing the paper to become screwed. Adusting the arms through the menu is a temporary solution until it becomes too excessive. Also the felt tips on the arms eventually wear out and the entire arm need to be replaced.

It is almost impossible to print pictures with borders on this machine.

By the way, how do the newer Noritsu machines transfer paper from the magazine to the exposure section?

If you have a choice between an SM and an RA machines, choose the RA. Too many pumps in the SM machine that can break down. The little valves in the remplenishment pumps wear out causing under replenishment. But then again the smaller tanks in the SM machines make for easier cleaning of the racks and tanks.

The MLVA exposure head is extremely solid but will cost a fortune if it need replacing. I recommend having a sercive plan on this machine that will cover mechanical parts.

The downfall of this machine is the halogen lamp it uses as a light source. The lamps don't last very long and are expensive. Over used lamps cause anomolies in prints and make for bad uniformity.

I have a question for RETIRED or for anyone else that can answer. RETIRED mentioned in the previous post that the filter wheel needs to be replaced when the contrast becomes weak. I don't think I have noticed lack of contrast, but I have a problem when I do an MLVA setup. I can't get any definition between the 17th and 18th square on my emulsion paper. I know it's not a chemistry issue nor is it bad photo paper.

If there is anything else I can help you with please feel free to ask.

Thank You.

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The thing is I have definition between 17 and 18 right now. But if I were to start all over from scratch and do an MLVA setup, everything goes well but there will be no definition between 17 & 18.

On my other MP1600, I can do MLVA setup and get a big difference in square 17&18.

Anyways i'll see if I can find a solution.

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Had a mp1600 since December 2000 and it worked like a charm... Until it started giving problems. Now i battle to even get the technicians to come and fix my problems. Also spare parts seems be be becoming a problem. I recently replaced the two ribbon cables on my arms in the machine and had to wait 2 weeks for spare parts from Japan. If it works, great. If there is the slightest problem, stay far far away.

Gerrit

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Hi.

I own 2 MP1600s and I work them very hard.

The problems you guys described:

1) between the 17th and 18th stripe being the same - in our experience it happens with certain photopapers only which we have determined to be old stock.  We never get this on a fresh roll.

2) The contrast issue on Kodak :  Firstly Kodak admits that their Supra paper is not compatible with their SM chemistry.  The workaround is to  make the chemistry more reactive.  We converted our SM machine to use RAP1 LORR from Russell and SNR bleach.  With the right concentrations and replenishment rates we get good results.

From what Noritsu tells me, the color wheels don't really deteriorate.  Playing with the color adjustment per magazine settings allowed us to have ALL of our photo papers repond about equally (we set the magenta to 103 for Kodak endura papers)

Endura is not a high contrast paper to begin with.  

If you have a service disk, there is a load voltage setup which compensates for these color wheel issues apparently.

3) Many parts for the machine are in common with the 2300 series and the 2900 series.  So far the only piece not available was when the calibration scanner burnt out.  We simply found one on Ebay and replaced the rom.  Another option is to ask Noritsu for XYZ parts (reconditioned).  They are cheaper and ususally work just as well.  Sure the machine is only 5 years old and eventually the parts will be harder and harder to get - but I've heard stories of my local noritsu people supporting a 1501 and that's one quite old bucket of bolts.

4) I had my MLVA replaced on one of the machines (under service contract).  They put in a type 2 and the photos looked better (the dots under maginification were no longer stacked linear but were staggered yielding a better picture)

We find that the arms go out of alignment about twice a year.

Well that's my 2 cents.

I'm a firm believer in this machine.

Mike

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