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Dks 1550 Serious Paper Jam Problem


photosceneross

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Hello again!

 

Currently having a problem getting anything to come through at all.  Thought I would ask for some help/advice here as you have all been very helpful in the past!

 

We had to change the heating element for the Dev and the Bleach fix recently as they were no longer heating the chemicals.  Did this and all was fine.  But then immediately afterwards we started getting paper jams,  now nothing at all will go through.  The paper appears to go through the Dev rack fine and then it gets jammed in the Bleach rack.  We have spent hours looking at it, tried changing springs and green things but to no avail!  There is nothing glaring obviously wrong with it (unless I am missing something).

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated! So frustrating...........

 

Many thanks

 

Ross

1550

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I have had that problem a couple of times and their are many things to look at.

Worn out green bushings that make the rollers wobble where you can't see them.

Worn or weak springs that don't hold the rollers the proper clearance from each other.

Springs that were put back on the wrong way - so the rollers are not holding proper position.

Wrong springs put on the wrong rollers. There are a few different springs that look the same but are different and they will not hold the rollers properly.

Worn idler gears that are hidden between rollers that are hard to see. If they are worn they will make the rollers slip and cause a jam.

Bent shaft ends that will wear out the green bushings and wobble the rollers. This happens a lot after paper jams.

Put the rollers on a table and roll them a little to see if the end shafts are bent. Get them to run true and you can put them back in with new green bushings.

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And if all that does,nt work try the drive shaft that runs through tech box as youcan see i the pic the left one has failed (bleach) once the rack loads up with paper the drive gear will move away from the drive gear on the rack and will stop spinning, take out the rack and see if if there is any lots free play play left and right on shaft if so that willl be your problem

It doesnt happen often but  does happen as you can see and took me quite some time to work it out..post-318-0-78202200-1374280008_thumb.jpg

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Many thanks for your replies so far.  We have changed many of the green bushings and also a lot of the springs and have done our best to make sure the springs are the correct ones.  The idler gears you mentioned, are those the ones that are not actually connected to any of the rollers? it is just literally a gear touching some other ones, there are two at the top and some further down.

 

We are a little confused as to where all the rollers fit, a lot of them are very similar.  We think we have them all in the right place but can not be 100 per cent sure.  Does anyone have a diagram/ photo of the actual order of the rollers? 

 

Also I have attached a couple images of the top,  again we think it is all right but feels like we are missing something obvious.

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  • 5 months later...

If you meaned Rack order in the tank compartments - looks good. Last rack BL3 has foam roller at the end, the BLfix rack has extra plastic at the one side for the concentrate distribution - and addidtional plastic form under one of the rollers. 

if you mean rolls assembly in the rack - is far more advanced. 

 

Regarding gear problem - Minilabtechnician probably for the first time on this forum said something more than "buy my parts contact me" 

I think your tube wit bearings is out - such angle is proofing that you have no bearing at all at the side near rack. Whole tube must be replaced. 

Maybe axe didn't suffer at all - check it condition - however i guess it will need areplacement as well if it is "grinded". 

You can't work like that, you risk to damage tech duct at all. 

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The shaft and bearing for the bleach rack was stuck to the machine. I had to remove it and put it back. One of the worm gears on the wheel is also weak. I raised the rod a little with a piece of paper and since last week no single paper jam.

I am hoping to replace these parts as soon as possible.

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emmaachile - in fact bearing tube should be stuck on tech duct - if you pulled whole tube out, it can be stuck on the axe so - bearings out as well. so if the tube on the top is turning on the axe -pull out rod, put lot of silicone grease there and fix all back . 

the one from bottom definitely need bearing tube. it can't work without. 

Both cog wheels suffered but still could be able to work - replacement advised. Worm wheels looks not so bad, are more resistant. 

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That was what I did. I removed the shaft from the body of the machine by hitting it lightly with a rod. I greased the rod on the shaft and also greased the bearing before installing it back to the machine.

I tested it by removing the gears from the minilab and this time everything came out and was not stuck to the machine again.

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but before ... check the bearings are stil working freely ? no damages on the axe ? is the tube still having gaskets at the ends ? 

 

the place for the bearing tube (the slot i technical duct) must be clean and degreased - tube as well.

use any alcohol ( denatured alcohol, isopropanol ), having problems to clean the narrow space you can even use a technical plaster to wip out the grease from tech duct. (not cement :P - white plaster )

tube must go inside with some resistance - it cant be inserted freely. Don't use clutch with axe for pushing it on place - you must otherwise you will damage bearings. when tube inside , than grease bearings again and gently push the axe.

 

lot of people is forgetting to grease machine in these places in regular way - that's why these problem appears. 

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bearings inside are made from inox as well as the tube itself. Rust can be a surface effect from the axe. within long time the photo chemicals are very aggresive and even stainless steel 304 can get it.

If you want to be sure about quality check the axe for the surface degradation.

Bearing tube can be washed  and cleaned for inspection  

U can use compressed air at first, then typical means or chemicals for car engine cleaning - will not damage o'rings. 

Flush out the grease and dirt from inside. Important - better dont remove the o'rings they are one use only - won't fit after removal. generally be carefull with them if you dont want to loose it. 

After drying - best at owen 1h 60-80 degrees - you can check the condition of bearing needles - and put new grease inside.

YOu know what kind of grease, i guess ? :D  

If needles are ok and their basket didn't got damages or didn't fall out - whole assembly will work as new :)

have a nice play  :)

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Well...as far as I remember KIS uses Polylube 802 silicone grease. Problem is that thanks to his own viscosity grease is acting also as a sealant on the bearings, protecting the gaskets

its creating a grease film during work.

Marine grease is based on lithium compounds, could be a good solution but - dunno what viscosity this one have. KIS also used marine grease (Y module rollers) but this was quite solid one,  not applicable on the clutch gears. I would apply it only on bearings, nowhere else.

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