diemaschine Posted April 20 Report Share Posted April 20 I'm trying to figure out if sleeves are used in the M6 and if they still available to purchase anywhere (EU would be best). I know absolutely nothing about sleevers but need one ASAP and found an M6 but the seller doesn't know anything about it either. As I understand it takes perforated rolls, but could one also use unperforated? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Would also be interested in buying a known working sleever for 5 or 6 frames if anyone has one for sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlam Posted April 20 Report Share Posted April 20 "perforated rolls" "unperforated" . . . I don't understand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemaschine Posted April 20 Author Report Share Posted April 20 I mean it seems that some rolls for sleevers either are perforated, as in you could tear them by hand at the end of the roll or maybe some sleevers cut them? Like I said, I don't know anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted April 20 Report Share Posted April 20 The Noritsu ENV-M6 has a sleeving cutter so it doesn't need perforated sleeving. There are 2 different models ENV-M6-T4 uses 4 frame sleeving (unperforated) ENV-M6-T6 uses 6 frame sleeving (unperforated) The older model ENV-M5 could be used with either 4 or 6 frame sleeving (unperforated). diemaschine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemaschine Posted May 3 Author Report Share Posted May 3 On 4/20/2022 at 8:04 PM, Dave S said: The Noritsu ENV-M6 has a sleeving cutter so it doesn't need perforated sleeving. There are 2 different models ENV-M6-T4 uses 4 frame sleeving (unperforated) ENV-M6-T6 uses 6 frame sleeving (unperforated) The older model ENV-M5 could be used with either 4 or 6 frame sleeving (unperforated). So I bought an M-5-M T, this seems like it will take 6 frames, yeah? This vendor is German with no English version of their site, but does it seem like these will work with my newly acquired sleever? http://gfh-foto.de/shop/archivierung-praesentation/archivmittel/sleevematerial/profi-sleevematerial-kb-6er-streifen-neutral-klar.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted May 3 Report Share Posted May 3 (edited) Yes this sleever will accept 6 frame sleeving. It looks like it will be suitable from the picture, but it's difficult to know 100% as there is no detailed description. Found this if you are in the UK. https://www.thesleevingco.com/products/6-frame-negative-sleeving-roll-for-35mm-film/ Edited May 3 by Dave S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemaschine Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 On 5/3/2022 at 6:31 PM, Dave S said: Yes this sleever will accept 6 frame sleeving. It looks like it will be suitable from the picture, but it's difficult to know 100% as there is no detailed description. Found this if you are in the UK. https://www.thesleevingco.com/products/6-frame-negative-sleeving-roll-for-35mm-film/ Thank you, Dave. I am based in DE and called the vendor, they got back to me and said it would work with the M5. The rollers advance when I use the cutting mechanism but I was under the impression that film would automatically advance as well, or does one have to manually feed with this sleever? Also the bulb is burnt out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlam Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 move up the handle and the film sleeve will -- - >> advance into the sleeve end until you release handle, advance stops. Try to see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemaschine Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 Thanks! I pulled off the opaque cover and could see the drive system for the film advance mechanism. The belt that attaches to the film advance snapped. Not sure if it's possible to put a new one on without dismantling the entire top. Also getting weird voltages at the two lamp boards 9/10VAC at the upper one and amost nothing on the lower board. Two look definitely burnt out but maybe there's a short somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlam Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 are lamps look like this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 7 hours ago, diemaschine said: Thanks! I pulled off the opaque cover and could see the drive system for the film advance mechanism. The belt that attaches to the film advance snapped. Not sure if it's possible to put a new one on without dismantling the entire top. Also getting weird voltages at the two lamp boards 9/10VAC at the upper one and amost nothing on the lower board. Two look definitely burnt out but maybe there's a short somewhere. The bulbs are wired in series so if one builb blows they will all stop working. Be careful as there is 100V AC powering those bulbs (25V on each bulb). To replace the belt remove the four screws, one in each corner and the screw in the centre of the sleeve cutter, then lift the whole top up to access everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemaschine Posted May 13 Author Report Share Posted May 13 @davidlam Here are the bulbs I have OL-6235BPR 32V 33mA. They sit on top of 2 male pins on the circuit board. Not sure if that is an option with the ones you have but they seem to have a similar power rating. @Dave S Thanks so much for your help!! So is it the 5 screws I've highlighted in the photo? AC bulbs in series seems like a silly design in this day and age. Do you have a circuit or block diagram? Maybe I would try and pull 5/9/12V DC from elsewhere (if it exists) and replace these with LEDs. I've also noticed what looks like two small trim pots on the front, any idea what they're for? I'm still waiting on the sleeving material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 4 hours ago, diemaschine said: @davidlam Here are the bulbs I have OL-6235BPR 32V 33mA. They sit on top of 2 male pins on the circuit board. Not sure if that is an option with the ones you have but they seem to have a similar power rating. @Dave S Thanks so much for your help!! So is it the 5 screws I've highlighted in the photo? AC bulbs in series seems like a silly design in this day and age. Do you have a circuit or block diagram? Maybe I would try and pull 5/9/12V DC from elsewhere (if it exists) and replace these with LEDs. I've also noticed what looks like two small trim pots on the front, any idea what they're for? I'm still waiting on the sleeving material. Yes those are the correct 5 screws. This sleever was made before white LED's even existed! So yes it is an old design. There is a 12V regulator on the circuit board that you can take 12V from to power LED's instead. The 2 pots are to adjust the stop position of the sleeving and the sensitivity of the sensor that detects the black mark on the sleeving, the red LED should light up when the mark is detected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemaschine Posted May 31 Author Report Share Posted May 31 (edited) @Dave S thanks for all of your help! I finally had some time to throw at this. I managed to pull power from the voltage regulator and installed 4 'white' LEDs, using 2 1/4W 1kΩ in parallel to maginally get 1/2W 500Ω impedance for each one. I also found a belt among my collection for the feeder and was able to adjust the trim pots. Loading the sleeve material was a little interesting- at first I thought the stuff I had wouldn't work until I realized how the roll sits within the rollers unerneath and how the feed parts open the two sides. Thanks again, couldn't have done this without you. I've been hand-sleeving 30-60 rolls a day, extremely time consuming. Edited May 31 by diemaschine Was not finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted May 31 Report Share Posted May 31 @diemaschine Great I'm glad it's all working. The White LED's I used were 3.2V so connecting x4 LED's in series to 12V gives 3V per LED, so no resistors are required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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