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E024 circulation pump stopped (1-8)


CatLABS

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I am getting an intermittent error of 024, circ pump stopped, showing all pumps P1-P8.

After moving the machine around to remove a panel, the error stopped. 

Could be a loose connection, but where, which one?

 

Any help is welcome.

 

Thanks

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Can be faulty processor lid mictoswitch, pump doesn't rotate, not working pump rotation  sensor, or bad connections. More information can find on this forum :
https://www.minilabhelp.com/index.php?/forums/topic/27806-nyc-noritsu-tech-needed/ 
https://www.minilabhelp.com/index.php?/forums/topic/27763-v30-temperature-dropping/ 
https://www.minilabhelp.com/index.php?/forums/topic/27089-noritsu-v30-error-code-024-p2-circulation-pump-stopped/  
and many other.

 

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I have read all of these threads.

The lid switch is good.

The error is intermittent, and flashes all pumps, though only CD temp drops when the error occours, so i am guessing it is linked to the CD pump 1 or 2.

I cant for the life of me see the pumps or understand where they are or where their lines and power leads are located?

Can you help me with this?

 

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1 hour ago, CatLABS said:

I have read all of these threads.

The lid switch is good.

The error is intermittent, and flashes all pumps, though only CD temp drops when the error occours, so i am guessing it is linked to the CD pump 1 or 2.

I cant for the life of me see the pumps or understand where they are or where their lines and power leads are located?

Can you help me with this?

 

Why do you think the lid switch is good?

The temperature of the CD is much more closely regulated +/-0.5oC where as the other solutions can drop around 2.0oC without any errors, so it will always need to adjust the CD after getting the 024 Error.

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11 minutes ago, Dave S said:

Why do you think the lid switch is good?

The temperature of the CD is much more closely regulated +/-0.5oC where as the other solutions can drop around 2.0oC without any errors, so it will always need to adjust the CD after getting the 024 Error.

The switch responds to manual action, the lid open alert on the screen is displayed or removed with manual action on the switch.

Is there a chance the switch is failing but the open lid alert is not displayed?

 

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30 minutes ago, CatLABS said:

The switch responds to manual action, the lid open alert on the screen is displayed or removed with manual action on the switch.

Is there a chance the switch is failing but the open lid alert is not displayed?

 

Yes, there are 2 parts to the control circuit for the lid switch, the part that tells the machine the lid is open requires very little current to operate normally, where as the second part has to open and close a relay, this requires more current, so a switch with high resistance will operate the display message normally, but will not operate the relay that supplies power to the pumps and heater circuit, which is the problem you are having.

I'm 99% the problem is high resistance on the contacts of the lid switch. Replace the switch and it should solve the problem.

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3 minutes ago, Dave S said:

Yes, there are 2 parts to the control circuit for the lid switch, the part that tells the machine the lid is open requires very little current to operate normally, where as the second part has to open and close a relay, this requires more current, so a switch with high resistance will operate the display message normally, but will not operate the relay that supplies power to the pumps and heater circuit, which is the problem you are having.

I'm 99% the problem is high resistance on the contacts of the lid switch. Replace the switch and it should solve the problem.

will check and confirm

 

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5 hours ago, CatLABS said:

How in the world can i remove the switch? I am unable to reach it because of the black vent assembly right there. Am i missing something?

 

There is 1 screw holding the black extraction fan in place, if you remove the top plastic cover for the dryer, you will see the screw next to the outlet vents on the body of the machine.

Once removed, there is 1 screw holding the bracket for the microswitch.

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12 hours ago, Dave S said:

There is 1 screw holding the black extraction fan in place, if you remove the top plastic cover for the dryer, you will see the screw next to the outlet vents on the body of the machine.

Once removed, there is 1 screw holding the bracket for the microswitch.

got it, thanks.

 

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Is microswich working, or not you can see without removal. When pumps stop check voltages  on these points :
Power PCB2 TP1 ( 24V-1 )
Power PCB2 J/P109 pin 1 ( microswitch input ) 
Power PCB2 J/P109 pin 2 ( microswitch output ) 

If to measure with ground there should be 24V .

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  • 1 month later...

cannot imagine your machine is having problem since end of February till now ...

the "intermittent " error besides microswitch . . .  could be 1) bad contact somewhere resulting in lost of 24v-3 .. check led status when error comes out,,, led should be always "on"

  2) bad connector of microswitch connector .    Good luck !

see below

check 24v-3.jpg

connector.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
11 hours ago, spodanev said:

I have the same problem with my v30. Put PCB1, PCB2 and cover switch from working machine but got the same error

Measure the resistance of the cover switch contacts, it needs to be no more than 2 ohms.

Don't assume the switch is good just because it came from a working machine, the contacts corrode over time.

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