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Clicking Sound coming from Noritsu V30


NYCFL

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I have a BW converted Noritsu V30 and it just started having some issues. Out of no where it just started showing every error possible. When I pressed "Y + N" they immediately show up again. I also noticed that there is a clicking sound coming from the main/PCB board. I took off the cover and it seems to be glitching. All LEDs turn on and off repeatadly. Could this be a sign of the board failing? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

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13 hours ago, Dave S said:

It would be helpful if you listed the errors.

At a guess I would say the solution levels in the main tanks are too low.

Sorry, the solution levels and diagnosing switches along with several other troubleshooting measures is the first thing I did. I’m just not sure what it is at this point. I will list the errors below.

 

Cutter Motor Error L + R

Dryer S-Thermo Actuvated (Not sure if this is the culprit)

Solution Temp Error CD + BL + Fix1 + Fix2

Thermosensor Error  CD + BL + Fix1

Replenisher tank empty for all tank

Soln. S-Thermo Activated (CD tank is flashing on display)

Cutter Return Error (L)

Waste Solution Tank Full (they are all not full and we’re emptied)

Dryer Temp Error

Process Soln. Level Too Low (checked all solution levels and they’re all correct)

I already checked the things I could check such as tank levels, waste tank, switches, and so on. I will note that it happened out of no where with rolls still running in the machine. The dryer also does not turn on when I turn on the drive switch but not sure if it’s a coincidence or the source of the problem.

 

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7 hours ago, davidlam said:

A link of a short video can help us to understand the " clicking sound " and LEDs flickering repeatively

Here’s a video of what’s going on. I have been able to repair all the machines in our lab for several years so I’m no stranger to them but this has me stumped.

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4 hours ago, Dave S said:

You can try measuring the DC voltage on P55 between pins 1 & 4 there should be 24V DC. (Top right)

Then try measuring the voltage with P55 unplugged, ideally there really needs to be load  on it, as it may measure correctly without any external load.

So when it’s plugged in, it does this weird thing where it’ll jump from 0 to just under 2 and then back to 0. I’ll attach a video below.

However, when it’s unplugged I’m measuring about 23.8 at P55. Also when P55 is unplugged there is no more clicking but I still get all the same error messages.

 

 

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You really need to put a load on the power supply to test it properly, you could use a 24V 21W vehicle bulb and connect it to P55 on the power supply, then check the voltage again.

Either the power supply is bad and not supplying enough current (under load) or something is shorting out the power supply when P55 is connected.

You will get lots of error messages when there is no 24V going to the circuit board.

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On 8/16/2023 at 5:26 PM, Dave S said:

You really need to put a load on the power supply to test it properly, you could use a 24V 21W vehicle bulb and connect it to P55 on the power supply, then check the voltage again.

Either the power supply is bad and not supplying enough current (under load) or something is shorting out the power supply when P55 is connected.

You will get lots of error messages when there is no 24V going to the circuit board.

When you say vehicle bulb. Do you mean an actual light bulb for a car? What would I be looking for when the bulb is connected? Most that I see have a circular connection so I think I would have to bridge the connection of the bulb to P55.

 

Also, when P55 is unplugged the board does not click anymore but still has errors because the 24V is not being supplied. Would that not tell me that something is short cxircuiting while P55 is connected?

 

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Yes, but car bulbs are usually 12V, I think some trucks use 24V light bulbs. You could alternatively connect x2 12V bulbs in series instead.

What would I be looking for when the bulb is connected? the easiest way would be to solder some wires onto the light bulb and solder to the underside of P55. The bulb should illuminate, and if you measure the voltage it should be 24V. If the bulb is flashing or the voltage is low there will be a problem with the power supply.

Also, when P55 is unplugged the board does not click anymore but still has errors because the 24V is not being supplied. Would that not tell me that something is short cxircuiting while P55 is connected?  Not necessarily, the issue could be the power supply is faulty and not supplying the proper voltage under load. This is why I suggested using a light bulb to test the power supply under load.

Normally these power supplies will shut down completely in a short circuit condition.

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There are two possibilities - loaded power supply doesn't hold 24V voltage, or somewhere circuit is overloaded.

First need test power supply. Disconnect P55 and to pins 1 and 4 connect any 24 V bulb. Can use 24 V bulbs, which are for light sources ( where used lower voltage ) . The most truck bulbs have 24V voltage, when car - 12 V. To make sure, that power supply works connect 60 W - 75 W or similar power bulb . Then current will be 2.5 - 3 A .

Only when you be sure, that power supply is good working you can search why power supply is clicking, when P55 is connected.

Not working Rubycon RPW-250 power supply ( Noritsu p.n. I038205 ) is typical fault. These power suppliers used on film processors and older minilabs ( QSS29, QSS30 ) .

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On 8/18/2023 at 3:04 PM, Dave S said:

Yes, but car bulbs are usually 12V, I think some trucks use 24V light bulbs. You could alternatively connect x2 12V bulbs in series instead.

What would I be looking for when the bulb is connected? the easiest way would be to solder some wires onto the light bulb and solder to the underside of P55. The bulb should illuminate, and if you measure the voltage it should be 24V. If the bulb is flashing or the voltage is low there will be a problem with the power supply.

Also, when P55 is unplugged the board does not click anymore but still has errors because the 24V is not being supplied. Would that not tell me that something is short cxircuiting while P55 is connected?  Not necessarily, the issue could be the power supply is faulty and not supplying the proper voltage under load. This is why I suggested using a light bulb to test the power supply under load.

Normally these power supplies will shut down completely in a short circuit condition.

I used both a 24v 21w halogen and a 24v 60w halogen and both illuminated with no flickering and the voltage read at a constant 23.7 while illuminated. Is it safe to assume it is a short circuit? 

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11 minutes ago, NYCFL said:

I used both a 24v 21w halogen and a 24v 60w halogen and both illuminated with no flickering and the voltage read at a constant 23.7 while illuminated. Is it safe to assume it is a short circuit? 

Yes, it seems so.

I would try unplugging the connector for the circulation pumps.

I don't have any wiring diagrams for a V30S so can't give you plug numbers etc, the power board at the bottom looks completely different to a standard V30. It's going to be a case of unplugging things/ fuses until the power supply stops tripping.

Edited by Dave S
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Problem solved! I got 21w and 60w 24v halogen bulbs, which illuminated just fine. I then began unplugging things and found the short-circuiting set of wires. I then chased those wires to the loading box, where I found the two wires for one of the roller pressure solenoids exposed and touching. I heat-shrinked them, and it solved the issue. Thank you again for the help!

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