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Everything posted by ghn5ue

  1. Hi, Our FMPC computer running MS01 3.1 crashed today and lost it's hard drive. When reinstalling, I got to the point where it uploads data to the LP2000SC. The printer shut itself off, then I got a communication error on the computer. Now I can't restart the printer (and I have shut the breaker on and off). The screen on the LP200SC displays 'Starting' and counts down to 0, then it just stops. Is there any way of recovering from this? Thanks..
  2. ghn5ue

    Northlight Picture

    Could be a gamut issue. Photo paper just doesn't reproduce really bright saturated colors. High end ink jet printers like the Epson 9900 do a better job of that. Photo printers have better gradation, however, as they are true continuous tone printers . If you have PD mode setup on your Frontier you should try printing it that way. PD mode does have significantly broader gamut than sRGB.
  3. I had a similar line once. Turned out to be a small thread caught under the laser unit. The air from the laser caused it to move around, and that is why the line was wavy and not straight like it usually is.
  4. The condition area just shows you what conditions the custom functions are set to. To setup the custom functions you have to do so in the setup menus. Not familiar with the SP3000 so you will have to look around a bit to find the menu. The dots you show are noise. Turning off hypersharpening does help reduce noise. Also make sure the lens and light source is clean. The less light, the more noise. The ccd sensor can also get dirty over time, but that is a much more involved process to clean, and you may need a Fuji technician to do this for you.
  5. ghn5ue

    Upkeep Ng

    Make sure you are using the proper lookup table (LUT) for the paper you are using. LUT is set in the paper magazine setup screen.
  6. http://www.fujifilmeurope.be/fuji/fhvip.nsf/files/manuals/$file/RA4manual_v3.pdf This manual explains how to do quality control . http://www.xrite.com/documents/manuals/en/810-64_810_Densitometer_Operation_Manual_en.pdf This is for your X-rite 810. It will read paper strips.
  7. Fuji Frontiers by default enlarge an image by 18 pixels to provide a bleed and prevent white edges on prints. If your file is sized properly (300dpi at the dimensions of the desired print size) you can print 'No Resize' and no bleed is added. This should get rid of the cropping.. If you find images are not positioned properly on the paper and cropping from one side or another, this can be adjusted in the printer menu. Refer to your manual for instructions.
  8. Here is the procedure for an SP2000. This may or may not work on an SP3000. Search for file called Rvon.reg . Right click the file and choose 'edit' Look for a line that says "Rev135ON"=dword:00000000" Change the last 0 to a 1 and save the file. Now double click the Rvon.reg file and you should get a message saying 'Rvon has been successfully entered into the registry'. Note that an SP2000 runs Windows NT 4, not Windows XP like the SP3000. If you don't have the Rvon.reg file, then maybe try running regedit.exe and search for Rev135ON. If you find it change the key as described above and save your changes. The scanner will probably have to restarted (rebooted) in order to recognize the changes.
  9. Are you printing your images 'Fill-In', 'Fit-In' or 'No Resize' ?
  10. I don't have experience with the SP3000, but other Fuji scanners will only give you positive option with manual carriers unless an option is switched in the windows registry. Black and white never has dust correction, as the technology (similar to kodak's 'ice') will not work with black and white due to it not being a dye based image. Color dye's are invisible to infrared light, so a scan with infrared will show all the dirt the software needs to retouch. Scanning a black and white neg with infrared shows the whole image, just like a scan with white light. The exception is Ilford's XP2 film, which although black and white is also chromagenic. We scan it as color film and with monotone correction turned on. This results in black and white scans or prints, and dust correction.
  11. First step would be to setup all the available paper sizes and surfaces. You find this in the maintenance menu called Direct Driver Setup I think. Press Ctrl and click on it, then you are allowed to make changes. Did you have a floppy disk backup of the old installation? If so that data can be recalled into the new installation, and may solve your problems.
  12. Does MS 3.1 work with files in AdobeRGB color space? 3.0 thinks everything sRGB.
  13. Try setting up a custom function that turns off 'Hyper Sharpening'.
  14. No, unfortunately. They are very different.
  15. Have you ruled out chemistry issues? Do you run control strips? It could be a few things with the print head as well. The cable that runs to it often has intermittent failures, as well as the led's could be near the end of their lifespan. There are lots of used parts available for these machines, If you are in North America I would try www.lucht.com.
  16. P Set is for print quantity. So if you were printing a roll of film and wanted to print 2 copies of each ,that is where you set it. I guess that is of no use to you running as a scanner only!
  17. The lamps do eventually darken and burn out. They aren't too hard to find, but you may need to go to a minilab supply company, or a Fuji dealer may be able to order one for you. There could be other issues however. It is common for the filters in the upper ccd area to get coated with crud over time. It is a delicate job to clean them without damage, and it also usually requires the focus table to be reset afterwards. That requires a special jig that Fuji technicians have, but generally isn't available. I had to call in a service tech to set it up for me after cleaning. It could also be an old lamp reflector. Start with a new lamp and reflector (they slowly lose their silvering over time) , follow the lamp centering procedure to make sure you are getting the maximum light output and go from there. Meticulously clean the light path (light boxes, neg carriers, etc.) as best you can without disassembling anything as a starting point. Hopefully you won't need an expensive visit from a service tech!
  18. The area scanned is determined by the print size selected. So if you choose a square print size it will scan the entire area. With an SP2000 the largest you can scan square is 10x10 inches (@300dpi), so you may want to set up a print size if there isn't one alread. Another tip with those scanners is to set up a 'custom function' where hyper sharpening is turned off. This will give you better high resolution scans that can print much bigger than you would expect. Hyper sharpening works great when you are going direct to print on a Frontier printer, but results in a fair bit of noise. Unsharp mask in Photoshop gives superior results and lets you control the amount. By setting this up as a custom function you can easily chose to hyper sharpen or not depending on what you intend to do with the scans.
  19. Press the 'Hold' button on the keypad. Your color and density corrections will now appear green on screen to let you know. Neat thing about this is you can still add corrections on top of the held ones for frames that require more or less correction.
  20. You need to pull the rack that is jumping and see if it is binding. If it is hard to turn the drive gear by hand, it is and you need to find the cause. Could be a bad gear, but most likely it is either swollen tires on the outer rollers , or the inner rubber rollers are swollen as well. With age these soft parts swell up in the last wash rack due to the chlorine bleach that is in the Super Conditioner tablets you add to the rinse.
  21. The Psr rinse system in Frontiers is prone to bioslime growth. This is just like it sounds, slimey yuchy snot like growth in the wash tanks, usually 2 and 3 being the worst. What you have may be more of a sodium sulfide issue , which is a byproduct of bleach-fix carry over into the wash. http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/cis167/cis167.pdf This is a Kodak tech document on the issue and how to clean it. Simply put, you bleach the rack and rollers with chlorine bleach, then after thorough washing soak them in fixer to remove the buildup. The Ps1 and Ps2 racks are usually the only ones that need this treatment in my experience.
  22. Converting is done on the DIC, not the scanner. C4/C5 should be installed on the scanner computer as well, but it does not install the same software as the DIC. Put the C4/C5 disk into the scanner computer, shut down the scanner and then restart the system . The software installation will start automatically. It is important that the C4/C5 version is the same on both scanner and DIC. Ethernet length will not be the problem. The most important thing for conversion speed is having a very fast D: drive in the DIC. The computers that Fuji sold as DIC's used high speed SCSI drives. Modern SATA drives should be fast enough, but the faster the better. Many years back when I used C4/C5 I did tests with upgrading ram, hard drive and processors and the faster D drive made the biggest change.
  23. Have you cleaned the glass top and bottom? Are you lifting off the metal scan guide that sits on top of the frosted glass to clean? Could be something trapped under there.
  24. That is the way Fuji makes them! The color tint creates neutral looking prints when the files are printed on a Frontier through the srgb workflow. So instead of balancing the printers so they would create a neutral print with a gray scale file, Fuji decided to leave the color cast and compensate for it with off color black and white scans.
  25. I don't think you can. Free export at 12x18 print size will be the largest you can get out of the scanner (even if it's capable of more). It helps to set a custom function and turn sharpening 'off' to get better quality scans. You can apply unsharp mask later in Photoshop, and get a scan that has a lot less noise and pixelation. I routinely print 20x30's from the 10x15 scans from our SP2000, and people are happy with the quality.
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