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Dave S

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  1. If you can’t work out what screws you need to remove in order to get access to the rollers on the 135/240AFC (II), honestly, I really don’t think you should be attempting the job of fitting the bottom rollers. It is a very complex job even for experienced engineers. My advice is to leave this job to the experts.
  2. As I suspected, you have poor communication on the ARCNET (fibre optic network) Try removing the fibre optic cables for the scanner, then run the test again and see if you have OK communication on anything now. To remove the fibre optic cables from the ports, push the black or white ring in, then gently pull out the fibre optic cable. You need to try to find the fibre optic cables that are causing the network to slow down and run poorly. Often the ends of the cable will need to be trimmed with a special fibre optic cutter.
  3. Go to maintenance, enter the service mode (F1- F9 password 2260) Go to scanner sensitivity check Upload an image of the graph here with both the shading on and off, then maybe we can see what the issue is.
  4. It looks like your printer is not showing any USB Firmware which is why it is not printing. Like Technor has suggested try installing the 605 printer Firmware using an old XP computer, possibly the Firmware is not loading into the printer with Windows 10, it maybe something to do with Windows 10 being a 64 bit OS.
  5. Run the self check that is located at C:\NoritsuKoki\Self Check I suspect your ARCNET communication is poor.
  6. When you press the order key (F3) does it beep straight away or is there a delay before it beeps?
  7. The SSR will need to be de-soldered from the circuit board to replace it. The part number of the board is showing as J391466, search for that in google and see what you find.
  8. SSR1 is for the CD (P1) heater.
  9. Try updating the printer firmware https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/systemversion/kodak-605-photo-printer
  10. Yes those are the correct 5 screws. This sleever was made before white LED's even existed! So yes it is an old design. There is a 12V regulator on the circuit board that you can take 12V from to power LED's instead. The 2 pots are to adjust the stop position of the sleeving and the sensitivity of the sensor that detects the black mark on the sleeving, the red LED should light up when the mark is detected.
  11. The only difference between the 120AFC and 120AFC-II is the 120AFC-II has a lens on the base to help improve the light intensity.
  12. You can use the conveyor from the 31, 32, 34 or 37 series, the casing is the same, just the colour is different.
  13. Have a read through this about checking and adjusting the paper temperature correction mode. https://www.minilabhelp.com/index.php?/forums/topic/25354-qss-32-problem-with-redcold-blue/#comments
  14. Which colour did you swap? After how long does it start to shift colour? If you do a daily setup after it has shifted, what is the correction it gives you? Are the AOM drivers genuine Noritsu parts? By the way it is no problem to do multiple daily setups during the day in order to correct for the colour drift.
  15. The laser diagnostic test is not particularly helpful in cases of colour instability. In most cases the problem is caused by a bad AOM driver, the easiest way to test it is to swap the AOM with a different colour. For example prints are going green, so swap the green AOM with the red AOM, do a few daily setups and monitor the situation. If you now start to get red prints you will know the AOM is the problem.
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