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Dave S

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Everything posted by Dave S

  1. I wish there was a magical chemical than could dissolve this. I use various grades of wet and dry sandpaper used wet. Kodak suggest this https://kodak.sinopromise.com/uploads/files/tech/cis167.pdf I've not tried it myself!
  2. Ok, it would be good to see the graph with the shading on as well. The LED unit is looking pretty worn out, all the values mA values are high indicating aged LED's.
  3. Enter the service mode (F Menu, press the F1 then F9 keys, enter the daily password, 2309 for today 3rd Dec) Go to, Menu → Extension → Maintenance → Various Adjustment → Scanner Unit Adjustment → Scanner Sensitivity Check Set ND filter to on Make a screen shot of the graph with both the shading on and off. Also need to see the LED Offset, Gain and mA values. This test will determine if the LED unit is good or not.
  4. I really need to know the full error number/s to know more about what is happening.
  5. I know a lab many years ago that ran a Noritsu 2301 and an old Fuji analogue printer which I think used CP43 chemistry. They wanted to use the Fuji chemistry on the then new Noritsu 2301, the rep rates and concentration were modified to use the much stronger chemistry, however after 2-3 years of use, the stainless steel on the BF rack on the 2301 was so corroded that the rack had to be replaced at great expense. So them trying to save costs ended up costing them much more in the long run. Just use the chemistry type the machine was originally designed for (assuming it is still available) otherwise you will potentially have problems further down the line, like swollen rollers corroded racks etc.
  6. The main thing to check is if the corrections value the machine is giving matches the colour of the print. For example if the print is a neutral grey and the correction is -0.1Y +9.7M 0.0C +1.2D obviously something will be wrong, so don’t enter that correction! Also if the colour of setup print was good the previous day, now it’s way off, look into the reason why, before entering any correction value. Step 8 is like the reference step and should read 90 90 90, the machine will add corrections to try to achieve this. Step 1 is the white and is largely influenced by the age/ type of paper and the condition of the chemistry (mainly STB and BF). The last step 18 is the black, this is largely influenced by the condition of the chemistry (mostly CD). There are other factors that will also affect the readings like the age and condition of the calibration plate. Also different paper types will have different responses; the professional papers tend to have a better black so the values of step 18 will be higher. Something like 2.10-2.50 is ideal for step 18, any value of 3.00 or higher will normally be caused by a bad calibration plate. I think the colorimeter stop positions may need to be calibrated on your machine as the step 18 is reading lower than step 17 on the Y. I’d also say the CD is a bit weak as the blue (Y) value is low.
  7. A screen shot of the 22 step readings from the colorimeter (daily setup or emulsion print) would be useful. The easiest way to see if the laser is mildly fogging the paper is by putting some black tape on a section of the pressure guide to partially block the laser beam, if the laser is fogging the part with the tape will be whiter than the rest of the print.
  8. Check your colorimeter calibration plate. If it is plastic, the white patch will probably have yellowed with age. Nortisu changed the design of new plates to a metal one to stop this from happening.
  9. @LumentationDid you resolve this issue?
  10. Most likely a film development issue. Probably bad Bleach or Fixer. The black will be because the digital ICE is seeing the silver in the film and trying to correct it. Maybe D-ICE has been turned off on the LS-600 scanner.
  11. Check the CD is properly replenishing, as a lack of CD replenishment will also cause prints to shift to blue.
  12. I've sent you a P.M.
  13. I have a later version of the software version D001 for the V30 RA. You will need a blank 1.44MB floppy disk and a PC with a floppy drive (a USB floppy drive is OK also)
  14. @Dan BrownIf you don't have the C41RA software you will need to buy it! There is a limit to how much free help we can give you. You have been given a lot of help to which there has been very little if any thank yous given. None of us get paid for posting on here.
  15. A standard C41RA machine only has the 1 probe for the STB in the last STB 3 tank. Mack sure the process is set the RA in the standard setting menu.
  16. There should be -12V on TP6 on J340034 Check if you have -24V on pin 3 of J/P74. If you don't check fuse F9 is good. While you are there you may as well check you have +20V on pin 1 of J/P74 also.
  17. Set your meter to DC V 20 for all the DC voltages under 20 volts. For above 20 volts set it to 200 volts (this is based on the photo of your particular multimeter) Place the black probe on to the terminal marked GND on the PCB (or any of the PCB mounting screws should also be GND) Place the red probe on to the test points you need to measure. Voltage measurements are the most important part of diagnosing a problem. No circuit board is going to work if it doesn’t have the correct voltages going to it! Oh and check the connector J/P74 is connected on the J340008 Power PCB 1
  18. It’s very easy to say that after the event. If you knew at the start why didn’t you say so at the beginning of this post then? You're either psychic or you're talking nonsense!
  19. Great, thank you for clarifying. It's good to know the outcome, so it can help someone in the future.
  20. What was already done? What laser PCB did you replace? There is not enough detail in your reply for it to make any sense.
  21. If you remove the USB cable from the scanner it should power off. If it does not, move the position of the red switch on the back of the scanner. If there no switch on the back of the scanner, it's likely to be a converted S4 scanner that does not have the USB power control. If the scanner powers off with the USB cable removed but does not power off when the PC has shut down, you will need to adjust the BIOS settings on the PC motherboard to turn off the USB 5V power when off. It's often called ERP or EUP, on some older motherboards a physical jumper position will need to be changed.
  22. Probably the cause is poor alignment. Run the laser test to see what the lowest percentage it synchronises at (assuming it is synchronising at all).
  23. The LS-600 and LS-1100 Scanner Control PCB's are different. LS-600 Scanner Control PCB is J391475 LS-1100 Scanner Control PCB is J391473
  24. It may be the mounting plate for the solenoids needs to be lifted up slightly to give more pressure. Just loosen the screws on the sides, and lift up the mounting plate as far as it will go, then tighten the screws.
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