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Dave S

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Everything posted by Dave S

  1. I'd say the fist thing you need to do is give the processing racks in the V30 a good wash, if the STB is old, dump it and mix fresh. See how things are after the racks have been cleaned. I've send you a PM of an engineer who may be able to help you.
  2. Where in the south are you located? What model of film processor do you have? What scanner/ Printer model are you using? The pink marks look to be film processing related, the rainbow line will be dust in the film carrier on the scanner.
  3. P1 is CD P2 is CD (Shower Pump) P3 is BL P4 is FIX 1 P5 is FIX 2 P6 is STB 1 P7 is STB 2 P8 is STB 3
  4. Probably some Bleach has been splashed into the CD tank solution causing the CD to become contaminated.
  5. It could be a Chinese fake dongle, that will only work with the version of EZcontroller it was shipped with, and will only work with Windows 7 and earlier.
  6. Good job. It's always a good idea to make a (service) backup anytime you add/ change the print channels. The Noritsu backup will not alter any mapped drives, as these are handled by Windows.
  7. The cause is normally corrupt LUT data, possibly the colorimeter alignment needs adjustment, the easiest way to check it is aligned properly is, make a test print then feed it in to read, remove the colorimeter head, with a pen draw a circle around the hole each time the print moves, that way you can see if the circle is in the centre of the steps. Obviously don’t enter any correction value if it gives you one! To correct the problem on the 12” type 2 paper on the paper magazine registration screen, change the number on 12” paper from 2 to 0, press yes, this will delete the registration data, then set it back to 2, press yes, and try setting it up again. If that still doesn’t work, you may need to delete the type 2 paper registration data by selecting a different paper type, pressing yes, then yes to delete it, then setting it back to the paper type you need and setting it up again. The other possibility is the profile data version is too old for the paper type you are using, I think the latest is something like version 7.20 now, others will know better than me as to what is the latest. As for the backup data, it’s kind of all or nothing, it’s a bit tricky to swap individual data files on the 2901 as there is both the setup data as well as the uniformity data for each paper type.
  8. As long as the curves flatten with the shading on I wouldn’t worry too much about it. The most likely cause will be the LED unit itself. It could possibly be bad alignment of the lens swing and tilt, however I would expect to see issues with the red and IR if this was the case. The 240 Lane will only use the centre section of the LED so it will not show any issues as problem section is on the outer edge of the LED light source unit.
  9. Great, here are some part numbers for some heaters you can use. It doesn't have to be a 1000W heater, the later 32 series use a 600W heater I029115-00 Heater 600W I029121-00 Heater 800W I029116-00 Heater 1000W
  10. Yes I would start with the chemical heaters. try unplugging all the chemical heaters and see if it makes any difference. If it no longer tripps, plug one heater in at a time. The STB heater is a 1000W one, so maybe try unplugging that one first.
  11. Check the date and time is correct. Check the program timer times are set correctly, if the off time is set later than the time you are switching it on to the program timer the pumps will remain on until the off time is reached. People often seem to get confused by the off time setting, and set it to the time they close the shop, this is incorrect. The off time should be the latest time you want to machine to remain on for while in timer mode. When you press the yes key the machine goes into operation mode and the program timer is disabled. Normally it’s something like this:- On 07:30(am) The machine will be ready for 08:30 Off 10:00(am) The machine will remain heated until 10:00 then will switch off if nobody has put the machine into operation mode.
  12. Are you talking about the circulation pumps or the replenisher pumps? In what situation are you experiencing the pumps not switching off? Obviously when the machine is in normal operation the circulation pumps will be running, and the replenisher pumps will be operating on and off while prints are being made.
  13. I'm guessing there is some kind of software problem, either with Windows or EZcontroller. In my experience it is often quicker to re-install Windows and EZcontroller again rather than trying to solve what the software issue is. Of course it could be a hardware issue with the PC, something like bad RAM or a bad hard drive, bad network card/ cable etc. Make a backup of the EZcontroller data, record the IP address and Subnet address for the PC and the QSS-37. Install EZcontroller Install Profile Data 3 + any option software Install the Printer software Load in the EZcontroller backup
  14. If the film came off from the leader card in most cases it’s due to poor adhesion from the splicing tape. Maybe the splicing tape is old or of poor quality, or the leader cards are greasy and need washing.
  15. The machine cannot balance the white of paper, if the paper is not white. It looks like maybe your CD tank solution is a bit too strong. If you have just mixed a fresh CD tank solution, did you add any Dev starter? The other cause is a bad calibration plate/ bad colorimeter head. If you attach a photo of the daily setup readings together with a picture of the daily setup print, it may give us some clues as to what is happening.
  16. Check you haven't mixed up the 5 pin connector on the AOM drivers. J/P801 is Blue J/P805 is Green J/P809 is Red
  17. The problem won't be caused the heater. Probably it will be the relay (SSR) controlling the heater. I don't know which relay (SSR) it is as you haven't given enough details as to which tank is overheating.
  18. You first need to determine which tank is causing the problem, look at the temperature display and see which tank is above the set temperature. Check the pumps are circulating properly in all the tanks. If one tank consistently goes above the set temperature and the circulation is good, then the most likely cause will be a faulty heater SSR that is not properly switching off. If all the temperatures are low, the problem could be a faulty over temperature sensor in one of the float switches, the easiest way to test them is with a resistance meter.
  19. If the chemistry is circulating properly (you should see it swirling with the chemical filter removed) the problem is probably due to a faulty solid state relay (SSR) that controls the BF heater. This is soldered to the relay board which is in the control box below the dryer. SSR 2 is for BF. J/P516 is the connector for the Thermosensors. Yes it connects to the Processor control PCB (J391259, J391358, or J390878)
  20. Has anyone touched the RAM on the image processing PCB? If so check they have been fitted to the correct position. Position J347 is the Composite memory J390554 Position J446 is the Expansion memory J390552 Position J448 and J449 Memory Units J360681 or Z019452 Position J447 Display Memory PCB J390581
  21. Try running the data transfer test. In service mode go to Menu → Extension → Maintenance → Data Transfer Test
  22. Ah that explains the difference! Because the 2901 uses a halogen lamp with dichroic filters the output is closer to that of an analogue printer. The paper reacts quite differently between a laser exposure and a halogen lamp exposure. Yes the shorter exposure times reduce the D-max value compared to fogged paper. The issue being if you have long exposure times you are more likely to experience bleed on anything that is black on a white background for example. It's always a compromise between maximum D-max and prints without bleed.
  23. What are the fogged paper values on the ZBE Chromira? Those 3901 fogged values seem a bit low to me. I would expect something like 2.30-2.50 for fogged paper. Are your values in the order of R G B or is it B G R?
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