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mcpix last won the day on December 23 2019

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  1. The green laser in my 3501 recently went out and I sent it out for repairs to a highly recommended company. I had the laser installed by Noritsu and we ran all the initial installation procedures. Almost all the pictures look fine however on photos with very strong highlights, the whites will sometimes look a little cyan. Is there another adjustment I need to make apart from the paper registration and magazine registration? I have the service manual but it doesn't have much laser troubleshooting information. Is there another manual for the laser? Thanks!
  2. mcpix

    Spots on Negatives

    Thanks for the follow up. I'll try lowering the dryer temperature next time I run some Portra film and see if that helps. In my case it only shows up on the last 70% of the film, so that may make sense if the film is getting too dry too early.
  3. mcpix

    Spots on Negatives

    I'm running into this same problem. Not all the time, but I just noticed that when it happens it's on Portra film. Did you ever figure this out completely? Thanks!
  4. Thanks, that's exactly the information I needed. I was watching my printer today and there is about 10 seconds between each 4x6 print. I can see where there is room to speed up the time between prints.
  5. Okay thanks! Any idea what the password is?
  6. Thank you for the info! Speaking of long print software, I purchased a CD with the long print software off eBay, but it needed a password to run. Do you know what password is required? Does it also need a dongle to work? Thanks!
  7. Thank you for the quick replies. I understand that running 2 lanes of 102mm paper will increase the output, but how does it run more prints of the larger sizes of paper? Does the processor itself run faster? Is the dongle on the inside of the machine? I want to make sure I get it from the owner. I'm having it shipped, so I won't be able to physically inspect everything until it arrives. Thanks!
  8. I currently have a QSS-3501 Noritsu and the opportunity to purchase a used 3502 has come up. l know the 3502 has a multi-lane print feeder for higher volume but I'm wondering if it's also faster at processing orders? I'm also wondering if all the other components are the same (processor racks, crossovers, etc.) as it would be nice to be able to switch parts between machines if necessary. Thanks!
  9. Slightly off topic but related to this discussion. I have a Noritsu 3501. It's the earlier non-plus version so it doesn't use EZ Controller. I was wondering if there is any newer software that gives me these same improvements? Am I stuck with Windows 2000 on this machine?
  10. You should join the Noritsu LS-600 Facebook group. Lots of good help from other members.
  11. Normally when I get noise in my prints, I shut everything down for about 3 hours (or overnight) and then restart the machine. I'm assuming this resets the laser. Since this puts me out of production for awhile I decided to try the "reset the Blue Laser" button. How long does it take for the laser to reset? Thanks!
  12. Hi, I've been having this problem intermittently for about 4 years now. The cure each time has been to shut the machine off (including the breaker) and then let it sit for about 3 hours. I'm assuming this resets the laser. It seems to happen more often on cold clear days, although I'm not sure what that means. The last time it happened was in February of this year and then it didn't happen again until just yesterday (November). When it first happened I was told that I would probably have to replace the laser. Although that ultimately may prove to be true, I just wanted to post this so that others would see that you may be able to run for awhile with this condition.
  13. I just picked up a used copy of EZ Controller with the dongle, but now I need to know how to set up my Noritsu LS 600 to work with it. Does anyone have a copy of the EZ Controller manual they would be willing to share? Thanks!
  14. Many of these LS 600 scanners were used with EZ controller or a connecting unit. Without disabling this you'll often be unable to run a scanner calibration. This will also keep you from being able to manually focus the scanner or even run cleaning strips. To disable this you'll have to remove the right side cover (see service manual link on this site) and unplug connector P/J 163. This should reset the scanner and allow you to run it in stand alone mode.
  15. I always hate it when you find a problem you're having on the internet, but the poster never comes back and says if they figured out a solution. So two years later....I finally figured out how to adjust the focus on the LS-600 without the "focus adjustment tool". I have to give credit to the members at the LS-600 Facebook page for pointing me in the right direction. First you get into the service menu as outlined above. In the LS-600 software go to the menu. Then type f1 & f9. It will ask for a password which is 2260. Voila! You now have two extra selections in the menu. Select scanner unit adjustment, then focus adjustment. It will bring up a screen that asks you to attach the 135 and 240 focus charts to the film carrier. Just select "Next". The scanner will do a quick light calibration and then take you to the focus adjustment screen where it would normally show you a wave form that you use to adjust the focus. Instead, in the center of the screen you'll see a box that says "focus value". This is what we'll adjust to find the best focus. Initially my scanner had a value of 75. I changed the value in large increments: 90, 110, 120, 130. After changing the number I would exit the service menu and go back and make a scan of a well focussed negative. Since I was scanning through Photoshop I did all my changes and scanning before I quit the LS-600 program. Then I went into Photoshop and compared the different scans. Wow, there was a huge difference. My scanner was way out of focus. After I determined the best focus was between 120 and 130 I then went back and readjusted the focus value in smaller increments: 120, 123, 125, 127. The final verdict was that 125 was the sharpest.This is not an absolute number and your values may differ. The only important thing is that you find the number that gives you the best focus. For my own comparison I scanned the same negative on my Nikon 9000. This time the LS-600 was every bit as sharp as the Nikon and it had much better color and contrast. Finally I'm able to offer high quality scans to my customers. In fact, another lab was so impressed with my new scans that they are having me scan all their high resolution 35mm and APS film.
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