eoughphily

I now have two machines doing the same thing. I am using CN16 N2 startup from fuji. I have checked that replenishment system is working and outputting correctly. I have checked the aeration by pulling the hose off and feeling for air output. The aerator was replaced just in case. I can visually see the chems cirulating. Filters are being changed almost daily in this particular tank. After dumping, I fill the tank with water without the rack and let it run for about 20 minutes, then I dump and repeat a second time. I dissasemble the rack piece by piece and clean all the goo out of every nook and cranny. However, after doing all this, there is still some goo left in areas of the tank I cannot get to, like the crevice where the filter sits. I do this about once a month, started about 9 months ago.

Hi, I have been doing maintenance on Fuji processors for 5 years now, and Im having an issue with an FP363 film processor. I work on about 40 of these, and only this one has this issue. After about a month, the bleach turns to mud. I have checked the aeration, circulation, temperature, and I am completely at a loss. Its like the mutant fungus from space that wont go away. Does anybody know of a cleaning solution that would be safe to use, and hopefully kill whatever goo this is that keeps coming back. Thanks, Eoughphily

Dude, did you check your sensor? There is a input/output section in your service menu to check if your sensors are working correctly. I they are working correctly, there should be a section where you can test your motors if they are working correctly or not. Let me know if that helps at all, Thanks, Eoughphily

How many clicks does your printer have? (what is your print count) anything above 5 million means a lot of wear and tear. If your tanks are not warming up for Ps3 and 4, try pulling the H713 heater which is linked to the Ps3 and 4 tanks. Examine it and clean as much as possible, see if that helps. Also before doing that, have you tried calibrating the temps of the thermal sensors? probably not the problem as you said the tanks do not warm up.

You need to edit your service menu with the custome buttons settings software. There are 6 buttons per tab, default, cutome1 and custome2. service menu 9 will be on custome1 tab, third button down. If you click on custome1 tab on your main screen, it should be greyed out. If it's a button you don't utilize, then you can just turn it off with your custome buttons settings cd that comes with your frontier. if you have any questions on that, I can help you with that as well, there should be a manual that came with the machine that explains all of that. Thanks, Eoughphily

Hey MasterLaser, thank you for correcting me. What you said does make sense.

Most likely it is the AOM board. There are 3 different kinds, R, G, and B. Could be that the R aom went out. Another consideration would be the laser itself. Check your laser settings. Does the R seem to be out of control verses the G and B laser. I know that on the FF500's the R laser tends to go out. sometimes you get the error, R laser current exceeds limit, or something to that effect. Eoughphily.

I have 340 manuals, is that good enough for you? Eoughphily

I am unfamiliar with the P1-RDS valve, I have a PDF version of the service manual for that machine. I did a search and did not find it there as well. Where is this valve located at? As for that permanent fix. That will take a bit of troubleshooting. You need to take the side panel off, the side where the main breaker is located. That will reveal you replenisher section. Next pull the front panel off in front of the processor section, then remove the panel to the right where the replenisher box goes. That will open up you replenisher drain valves. Breaker off the printer and then drain the 3 replenishers, don't drain PSR. Turn the machine back on and when it askes, install a new replenisher box. Once it starts mixing, go to the side that the breaker is located on, and watch the upper lower float switches. When it's done, are all replenisher levels at the same level. If not, one is not getting enough water. If they are the same level, maybe an upper float switch is going bad and stays down sometimes when there is plenty of solution tricking the machine that there is not enough there. If all levels are the same, there is a one way valve located just to the left of the replenisher tanks/float switchs I think for the P2RA. the valves ware out sometimes and need to be replaced, check the valves and see if they look abnormal. instead of being nice and smooth, they will be curved and not so smooth. replace and try mixing again. If that doesn't do the trick, it could be a little deeper. sometimes you get a message, cleaning valve abnormal, could be those guys having issues, not very likely. Eoughphily

When the prints come out overlapped, are they still wet in between prints? If so, then it's deffinately in the processor section. If they are wet between the prints when they come out overlapped, is it a clear wet, a red chemical wet, or undeveloped wet? That kinda helps determin where in the processor its heppening. undeveloped, comes from the developer, red chemical wet would be bleach/fix, just wet and fully developed, PS1, 2, 3, 4. Another thing to check, pull rack number 6. Pull off the side panels and examine the soft tire rollers. Those are those little things that look like french ticklers, round with bumps all over them. For some reason, in rack 6, they tend to swell and cause extra friction, thus causing the occasional overlapping print. Check the edges of those rollers and see if they are basically falling off the end of the roller. Eoughphily

No special equipment is needed. Absolutely make sure that the machine is breakered off before changing the laser filter. Pull the top cover off (the part with the LCD display screen). Remove the one screw, and the filter should slide out. replace with new filter. When you turn the machine back on. There is a section in setup and maintenance where you need to reset the laser filter history, so that one year from the change of date, the machine will give you a reminder to change the laser filter. Do you have a service manual for your 570? Eoughphily

Hey Nash, You should try going into setup and maintenance, login as SE2 password 7777, goto processor input/output. Check the P1RA, P2RA, and P2RB upper and lower level sensors. If one says no and the rest say yes, add water to the one that says no until is says yes. reboot if needed. That is a temp fix. Let me know if you want the permanent fix. Eoughphily

Christina is right, 12 x 18 is the max size you can do. Sorry.

First of all, pull processor covers and wedge flat head screw drivers in the corver sensors to trick the machine that the covers are there. Watch as the prints go thru to see where they are overlapping. Here are two tricks that will really help you. First, look at the crossovers, do any of them look like they are dancing around. a wiggling and a jiggling, even just a tiny bit?. Second. Grab a flash light and shine it on the rod where the 'C' clip locks it in, on the upper rack section closest to the tank filters (the rod that holds the drive gear for the crossovers, that side). Watch as the rod turns, does the rodt stutter or hesitate at all? If they do, replace the 6 shaft supports (bushings) in the upper section of each rack with this symptom. If your crossovers are dancing around, replace the shaft supports. If they are still dancing arround, check where the shaft supports sit in place, sometimes they wear groves into the crossover and move around too much, causing the crossover drive gear to loose contact with the crossover gears. Eoughphily

By chance do you have a FRSS water filtration device from fuji, it deionizes the water? As well, do you put super conditioner tablets in the PSR every time you add 4 liters of water to your PSR? This process helps to reduce algae build up in the PS1, 2, 3, 4 tanks which will cause your dirty pictures. Eoughphily