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Dave S

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Dave S last won the day on January 31

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  1. Blue on the print is made by exposing Green and Red Red on the print is made by exposing Green and Blue See the common link here? The Green Laser! You would be better off printing a Yellow, Magenta and Cyan gradient as this will show the exposure per individual Laser head.
  2. Like kodak_service has said it's noise coming from the green laser. The noise will not show on the cyan strip because only the red laser is used to make cyan on the print.
  3. Bleach starter is not essential, you can run without it. You can't over bleach a film, the main issue is there is a small possibility of the bleach crystallising when it is too strong. Maybe run it without any bleach replenisher for the first 50 films (disconnect the replenisher pump pipe)
  4. Honestly I would be surprised if the transformer is faulty, these transformers tend to be very robust. There are 1 or 2 small trip switchs attached to the transformer to protect it in the event of a short circuit. Ideally you need to measure what voltage is going into the transformer and what voltages are coming out of the transformer to determine if it is faulty or not.
  5. You need a G31 or G41 chipset motherboard that has at least 2 PCI slots.
  6. You don't need to dissemble the motor, just measure the resistance on the connector plug. My concern is a faulty motor may damage any replacement PM driver.
  7. I highly doubt it will work. You need a B1 type green head + driver board if you are using it from a 32/33 series.
  8. Which printer? Backup data, and head data is unique to your machine. If you don't have this data you will have to set up all the print channels etc again.
  9. Juddering while moving 90% of the time is due to one or more stepper motor coils not being powered by the PM driver. Check the resistance of the motor coils to make sure none are shorted out, all the coils should have a similar resistance between them.
  10. Oops, yeah a missed connector will do it! Thanks for telling us, it's often the simple things we overlook. What is happening with regard to the movement of the paper mask? Is it moving at all, is it juddering as it moves? does it move to one end then start juddering? Have you checked the home sensors in input check?
  11. Can you take a photo of the system version check display? What negative masks do you have? Are they registered in option registration?
  12. It's very simple, the cutter blade should be in the down position, you then put the mouth of the film canister into the green clip, rotate the big knob to push the tape into the film canister until you see the centre spool of the film canister rotate, then when you remove the film canister from the green clip, the end of the film should be attached to the sticky tape. Then rewind the tape back until it's flush with the cutter blade. Repeat for the next film. When the tape has lost it's tackiness, use the cutter to cut the tape back to use a new fresh sticky portion of tape.
  13. ENV-M6 is just an evolution of the ENV-M5. It has a better illuminated area to see the frames, and uses a better motor system for feeding the negatives in. Both models do the same job! Forget the AB-3 as you cannot get the tongues for them anymore. The only alternatives that I know of were the Bero magic puller that used thick sticky tape to remove the film.
  14. I really hope not! They were awful even when they were new! The 29 series was a million times better, 18 years later they are still going strong!
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