Dave S

Ok I understand more what's happening now with your videos. It's a strange problem for sure. Enter the service mode, and go into check, output check, test all the items operate with the drive switch turned on/off. You should see various LED's light up as each item is operated. I would remove the power PCB 2 to check the back of the board has not had chemistry spilt on it. Try doing an all data initialization, then set the date and time, that may help with the initial start up issue.

It looks like the green laser is working very well. Perhaps a little bit too well!

Pins 5, 6, 7 & 8 on the power supply output are +24V the rest are ground. I take it the switch that is tripping off is grey/white one near to where the power cable connects? I don’t know how you are still getting voltage on the power supply after this switch has tripped off as this is the main breaker switch, all power should be off when this switch is off. It looks like the jumper J25 for the dryer heater voltage selection has a link on it between pins 9 & 10 I suspect this cuts the power if the link is not plugged in. You can disconnect the dryer heater on J/P124 instead, it will probably be located at the back of the machine where the dryer is. Or if you remove Fuses F6, F7 & F8, this will disconnect the power going to the dryer heater as well. With the 5V disconnected most things will not be running as the control board uses low voltage to turn the relays (SSR’s) on, that power the pumps and heaters, including dryer heater. My guess is it is the dryer heater causing it to trip from your description.

It does not use a backup battery, it is a backup capacitor. It is normal for it to go flat after a few months switched off, but as soon as you switch the machine back on it will charge up instantly. No need to replace it. Anyway the backup battery will not cause the machine breaker to trip!

It could be the dryer heater or the dryer fan as these also come on with the drive switch.

It is caused by uneven development of the paper. Check the CD temperature is correct. Check the rollers in the CD rack are clean and smooth, Check the No.2 Crossover rollers are good, they should be smooth rollers not ones with a cut out in them.

Yes they will stay the same.

Using a Blue wire for Live is very very naughty. If someone connects Neutral to that wire you will have a direct short from live to Neutral. I would be having strong words with the person who did that!

Your machine is still wired for 3 Phase 4 wire (3 lives and one Neutral) Yes the machine can be run by linking L1 L2 & L3 to Live and N to Natural but it is not the recommended way of doing it. Do it properly and change the wiring so you only connect the Live to L1 and the Neutral to L2 (Earth/Ground to the Green & Yellow terminal) The L3 and N terminals will not be used.

Yes, you need to make the wiring changes per the attached diagram. V Series Single Phase Wiring.pdf

Use the Form button to select PJP mode. If you scan a negative, does it display on the screen? Check the dichroic filters in the lamp house move on the runners smoothly. Check the setup filter (the one you turn with the knob) is not broken.

You need to look at the Scanner Sensitivity Check display to see what it is showing. Have you tried scanning with the Digital Ice turned off?

If you are using a network switch, there will be 2 cables. 1 network cable from the EZcontroller PC to the network switch and 1 network cable from the 3502Plus to the network switch. As Minilab service has suggested the best configuration is to use a second network card in the EZcontroller PC with a Static IP address and connect to the printer using a crossover cable.

I'm guessing your "conversion kit" didn't include the most important part, the scanner driver PCB?

Great, I'm glad you got the issue resolved.