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Dave S

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Everything posted by Dave S

  1. I forgot to mention, you need to confirm the actual temperature in the tank matches what the machine is displaying. If there are bad connections on the thermosensors the display will read lower than the actual tank temperature. With regard to better specs I was thinking of, if for example you can’t find a 2A 240V SSR it would be fine to use a 3A 250V SSR instead. The control voltage will need to be in a similar range of 3-5V DC though, anything than needs a switching voltage above 5V DC will not switch on the SSR in this application. (3-32V is fine in your linked SSR). The ones in your links look OK though they are a bit thicker compared to the original, so you may need to bend the other SSR’s on the board to create space for them. Like I said it’s extremely rare for these SSR’s to fail in the completely off state, all the failures I have encountered have been the SSR not switching off properly causing the solution temperature to go too high. In 99% of the no power going to the heater faults the cause is not the SSR.
  2. Digikey or Mouser Electronics should have something, just make sure the electrical specifications are the same or better and that the pin spacings match.
  3. I really don't recommend you test the heaters outside of liquid, if the heater gets too hot the thermal fuse will blow inside the heater and you will have to replace the heater. S-Thermo Activated means the safety overheat thermostat in the float switch has detected the liquid is above around 42 C, in this condition it will switch off the heaters. If the liquid is not this hot, it will be a problem with the float switch or a bad connection on the wiring for the float switch. Check the thermo sensors, or float switches in the Fix1 and Fix2 tanks have not got swapped around. Check the circulation pumps are operating normally. Have you taken the Power 1 PCB off and checked the solder joints on the SSR's?
  4. Yes but remember the V50 and V100 have a cooling fan fitted so the relays can handle the higher load.
  5. It's rare for SSR's to fail in the off state, it's more likely to be bad solder joints on the back of the power PCB. You can test each heater in output check mode.
  6. Unfortunately not, if the emitter has gone dim it will have to be replaced. It only needs one bad emitter to effect the whole fibre optic network.
  7. This problem is often down to weak output from the fibre optic emitters. Compare the brightness of the fibre optic ports (ports with the white ring) any that look dim will likely be the causing the issue.
  8. The Laser alignment settings look OK. The confirmation print is too small for me to see it clearly enough to completely confirm everything is correct. Can you show me the value for each step on the daily setup print. I need the readings from step 1 to step 22. A screen shot of the correction screen is good enough
  9. I have asked you to upload a scan of the Exposure Position Adjustment test print 2-3 times now, until you do this I cannot give you any further help. Sending more and more prints of the same problem is not useful in helping to identify the problem. So I will ask you one more time. Make a 600dpi scan of the Exposure Position Test print together with the values you have in the settings, and upload the link here. Do the same with the Exposure Position Test Print Confirmation print.
  10. Make a 600dpi scan of the Exposure Position Test print together with what values you have in the settings.and upload the link here. Do the same with the Test Print Confirmation print.
  11. Enter the service mode: Go to Menu → Extension → Maintenance → Various Adjustment → Printer Mechanical Adjustment → Exposure Position Adjustment F-Functions Test Print Choose the image that the Magenta and Cyan line up perfectly for example 1E, enter this number into the settings Now do the same for the Yellow and Cyan. Do the same for section D1 and D2 After you have done this, F-Functions Test Print Confirmation Confirm the 0 lines (indicated by the arrow) are all be perfectly in line now.
  12. As Minilab service has said, the Exposure Position Adjustment has not been done correctly. When you print the confirmation print the 0 lines (indicated by the arrow) should all be perfectly in line.
  13. The SSR's are 2A not 3A on the V30/V50. The V50 uses a 400W heater for the CD and STB so the circuit board will handle a 400W heater, but the V50 has a cooling fan fitted where as the V30 does not, so there is a risk of the circuit board getting too hot with the extra load of a 400W heater on the V30. So it is not something I would recommend you do.
  14. It's impossible to see the details on the photos you have attached as the resolution of the pictures is too small to zoom in. Scan in the photos at 600dpi then I can see the issue and advise you better.
  15. Which machine model? Your images are too small to see what the issue is, upload a high resolution scan to WeTransfer etc and share the link on here.
  16. Does the LS-600 maintenance program see the scanner?
  17. Ok! Take out the P2 pack to give yourself more room, on the bottom of the P1 tray either at the front or back there should be a bar that you can pull forwards which will release the whole tray from the machine, hopefully you can then see the underside of the tray and see what is preventing the lever from moving.
  18. Ok, then I have no idea which part you are talking about that is stuck. Release lever for what? What is P1? A photo would help
  19. You can try taking each memory module out one by one and refitting them back again on the image processing PCB. Be careful as some are different and it is easy to put them back into the wrong slot. Remove the 2 image correction boards and switch the positions of them. Run the test again to see if anything has changed.
  20. To test the image processing boards run the data transfer test. Enter the service mode, go to Menu → Extension → Maintenance → Data Transfer Test Click Yes Data Transfer. Check the results are all showing Good.
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