Jump to content

Dave S

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Dave S

  1. You will need to enter the service mode and do an all data initialisation then.
  2. It's a very simple circuit, AC mains goes into the transformer and 24VAC comes out, The Processor relay PCB cannot alter the voltage going into the transformer, the voltage comes directly from your electricity supply. Measure the voltage coming in and check it is not above the transformer input voltage. The Processor I/O PCB simply switches the AC24V to each pump with solid state relays, I can't see how it can cause the transformer to burn out. You need to check all the wiring from the processor control PCB to the pumps, maybe one of the wires is shorted to the chassis earth, a wire trapped under a screw for example. The only thing I can suggest is to put the tapping on to 240 instead of 220 to give a bit more leeway.
  3. Why not use the "contact us" link on their webpage and ask if they have any suppliers in the US? Maybe you can purchase directly from them?
  4. Part number TCE10002 https://www.nichiban.com/industry/equipment/autotaper_tce100/
  5. The input to the transformer is set on the wrong tapping. For example you have 240V going in to the 200V tapping The other cause is the 24VAC output is being shorted out, check the cables are not damaged and shorting to the machine chassis.
  6. It looks like some kind of maybe cleaning chemical has got onto the film, it's not fogging as the XP2 B/W film has coloured marks, this can't be caused by fogging/ a light leak on a B/W film. Check the No.1 crossover is completely dry before processing film, make sure all the rollers in the loading unit are clean and dry. leave the No.8 squeegee rack soaking in clean water overnight in case it's got some chemical on the rollers. The 024 error Pump stopped will be a bad micro switch on the processor top cover. The Fix 1 taking a long time to heat up, will probably be a failed heater, it most likely is only heating from the heat of the BL and Fix 2 tanks next to it.
  7. Probably a bad floppy disk or bad floppy drive. If after replacing them you still have the same issue, the problem will be either the main control PCB or the display control PCB. The software gets loaded into both of these circuit boards.
  8. You can try reloading the software from floppy disk. Put the disk into the drive turn on the machine Software is here https://we.tl/t-BIEs6KF7gU I suspect there is a problem with the display control PCB J340034
  9. Why did you need to replace the power supply and power board? If chemistry got spilt on to the machine and it and it went bang, it probably has damaged the display control PCB or the main control PCB as well.
  10. I would say the probable cause is the drive voltage PCB J390638 Does shutting the machine down and switching it off at the breaker switch for 5 mins help to clear the problem?
  11. You can use J390919 as well (the difference is to do with ROHS compliance, the later J391270 is ROHS compliant the older J390919 is not). I would say the red laser being lit very dim all the time is normal, my guess is it's done to reduce the warm up time to print after the machine has been idle. You don't appear to have any cyan fogging so I wouldn't be concerned about it. You have nothing to loose in upgrading the software for the laser control PCB, and loading in old backup data. Just make a backup of what you have now, just in case of any problems.
  12. Where are you located? Can the people who repaired your laser not offer you some assistance?
  13. The machine is a bit too clever! I forgot when it doesn't see the green laser beam it attempts to make a pure green print, by activating the Red and Blue lasers. I wanted to get the machine to output to the blue laser from the green channel, unfortunately this is not going to be possible due the machine detecting not seeing the laser beam and doing stuff we don't want it to do. I think all you can do is get your laser control PCB tested on another machine to see if it is good or not, if it works well on another machine the problem will be with the Blue laser, if you get the same yellow patterning on another machine from your laser control PCB, you will know the laser control PCB is faulty.
  14. Yes that is correct. You can also try still with the green and blue switched, but this time the Green BNC wire disconnected to see if you get a good yellow square instead of magenta from your earlier test prints. This will hopefully test if the blue laser is operating normally or not.
  15. Ok, that is what I would expect to see, so it does seem as if the laser control PCB is giving out a bad signal on the blue channel. The Laser control PCB is the large board that sits on top of the laser, Another test, connect the blue AOM back and swap the green and blue output BNC plugs around with each other on the laser control PCB, what I think will happen is you will now get prints with lots of magenta noise instead. Lets try and see.
  16. There should not be any exposure from the blue laser when printing a cyan and magenta only picture. When you unplug the AOM there is no blue exposure so the blue laser is being given the signal to expose. I would try another laser control PCB, it could well be the cause of the problem. Maybe try printing your images again from above, with the blue BNC plug disconnected to see if you get a good cyan and magenta print. Obviously if you try to print anything that needs yellow it will become blue!
  17. It you create a print on the PC with say a magenta and cyan square on a white background, does it print normally? You can use in MS paint on the Noritsu PC if you like!
  18. I would say the replacement Blue laser is bad, it looks like it's generating loads of noise. It could maybe be a faulty Laser control PCB, but less likely. With the AOM driver connected back as normal, If you operate the blue laser in output check is the pollygon mirror frequency stable at 1380 or does it remain at 0?
  19. Can you make some prints with the Blue AOM driver BNC connectors disconnected.
  20. You're welcome, I'm glad everything is working now. Thanks for taking the time to come back with your findings, and to say thanks! It's always nice to have a finalised end to a forum thread
  21. It looks a bit too strong, but it could also be slight contamination. The grey patches are green instead of grey. You could try adding 100ml of CD Starter and see if it helps or not. Sometimes it quicker to just dump it, wash everything out and start with fresh CD.
  22. It seems you have loaded the wrong software. QSS-3300 software is different to QSS-3301 software. There is no image processing PCB or image correction PCB etc on a QSS-3300
  23. Instructions are here https://asset.fujifilm.com/master/americas/files/2020-02/70357abaa66923dbc1a44d4cc543999b/600012445.pdf https://asset.fujifilm.com/master/americas/files/2020-02/1f4c80b4d7412f12f05edb8d15c2121c/600012438.pdf Based on the instructions on the above datasheet for a Frontier 370 you will need 4 bottles of both part A and part B (8 bottles in total) for the developer. So you will need 2 kits (boxes) for the Frontier 370
  24. I know exactly where the 24V/36V power supply is located! What I'm saying is the fibre optic cables run in the same location as those cables which had to be moved and unclipped in order to slide out the draw. I can see 2 fibre optic cables right underneath the 2 red cables! You don't need to remove the image processing from the machine, just remove the black cover and the black panel on the left, then you can see the image processing PCB and check if the fibre optic cables are pushed fully in. You have no communication with the image processing PCB, so you have to check it in order to move forward and try to solve the problem.
  • Create New...