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Big Dave

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Big Dave last won the day on April 23 2019

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About Big Dave

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  1. @Dave S Is there a way to test those 2 relays without removing the pcb ??
  2. Do the print heads have dampers ? Can you change them ?
  3. Hi DaveS, I took photos of those PCBs and yes LEDs 1, 2, 3 & 4 are ON all fuses on PCB1 are good , cleaned and reseated. SSR x1 and x2 visually look fine from the top, but do not know if they are failing. The connectors you referenced on PCB1 and Processor control PCB are good and have been reseated.
  4. Heater wire = resistance wire same stuff used in toasters and vape gear. probably Kanthal, maybe stainless steel (my preferred choice for vaping), or NiChrome60 or NiChrome80 Just googled it, it’s nichrome80 i buy from here: (located in California) https://temcoindustrial.com/shop/wire-cable-accessories/resistance-wire
  5. IIRC, in the film loading bay, on the right side where the leader card is inserted, there is a demarcation “line”, I think orange(?). The top of the leader card has to be inserted, at or below the line. Otherwise, tape 2 or 1.5 leader cards together to make 1 really long leader card.!
  6. Hi DaveS, yes, all the LEDs you asked about are on. couple days ago, machine was making all the “right” noises, today, after about 5-7 minutes, the (I think) dryer motor turned off, so it “sounded different” today. About a minute after the change in sound from the Noritsu, I just turned it off at the breaker.
  7. Thank you @davidlam, if I remember correctly, both boards in the back looked good, but will check voltages tomorrow.
  8. Hello All ! Todays problem is All of the working tanks are not heating up even after 2 hours of warm up time. Working tank temperatures did not rise. All fuses on J390456 are ok (F1-F11 and FL1-FL4) all SSRs look good, None are dark or burnt or damaged. PCB J390564 is the same. Everything looks fine. No error messages were displayed. What could it be ? thank you !
  9. @kodakman7, did you get this resolved ? what was the solution ? we replaced our drive voltage pcb last November/December, but on recent power up, it was giving us similar issues on the daily setup as we had before, where it was going yellow, and correction values were VERY out of range.
  10. hi, Big Dave.

    see my email to you I can include PCI/Arcnet board FREE with qss-2901 lamps purchase. Hope reply by email

  11. Hello all, When you perform a system upgrade from floppy(or HED’s) it updates the ArcNet card, but is there any other component in the machine that also gets an ArcNet update ? And does anyone have a spare 2901 compatible ArcNet card ?? We might be needing one !! Message me please Thanks ! DavE
  12. Hi Dave S, Thank You ! That seems to have done the trick. With the jumper everything started up just fine, no error messages. Removed the jumper, and it started up just fine, also with no error messages. What’s next ? Just leave it alone ? Or is there something else we need to do ? I’m officially confused as to WHY this happened though. Thank you again!
  13. Thanks DaveS, That did it. It now stays on longer than 5 seconds ! I let it run for 2 minutes and then flipped the breaker off. Do I leave the jumper in place, them close up the machine and use as before ? Or this was a test to further diagnose the problem ? What’s next ? Thank You Very Much !!
  14. Ok, turned on all the breakers, and the same problem persists (somehow hoping it would just go away!), and both green LEDs were on. Multimeter tells me the 5v was good at 4.96v, and 23.9v on both sets of the 24v side. The relay click seems to be coming from the Power PCB 1, it clicks once and the fans and motors start up but there is ONE red LED lit in the top left corner, then after 1-4 seconds (it varies) it clicks again, and all fans and motors turn off, and all LEDs on it turn dark, but the Processor Power Supply PCB and the Processor Control PCB have green lights (2 and 3 respectively). So either there’s a short somewhere, or a bad relay on Power PCB 1, or a bad Power PCB 1 ? What should we check next ? Thank you !
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